Read on for clear signs your bearded dragon needs to see an exotics-focused vet for a checkup or intervention.

Importance of Preventative Vet Visits

The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” very much applies to bearded dragons. Schedule annual wellness exams to catch issues early plus establish a baseline for your dragon’s healthy state even when they seem fine at the moment. Preventative bloodwork, parasite checks, and other diagnostics further bolster insights into subtle health changes.

Your vet also tracks ongoing growth status against breed standards at each visit. Undersized or overweight dragons may require revised nutrition and husbandry plans to get back on track developmentally. Preventative care tailored to life stage optimizes quality of life and longevity.

Concerning Signs To Watch For
In between regular well visits, remain alert to these common indicators of emerging health problems in bearded dragons warranting prompt veterinary assessment:

Appetite Changes
Healthy dragons eagerly consume appropriately sized feeder insects multiple times weekly. Loss of appetite lasting over 48 hours always warrants evaluation for potential illness or gastrointestinal issues. Conversely, unusually ravenous eating paired with rapid weight loss points to parasite problems.

Appearance Changes
Dragons’ spikes and skin coloration tie closely to mood – darker colors and flatter positioning signal stress or feeling unwell. Conversely, abnormal swelling around limbs or joints indicates injury or fluid retention syndromes needing medication.

Posture & Movement Issues
Healthy bearded dragons move often to precisely regulate their body temperature. Lethargy, muscle twitching, limb tremors, dragging legs and tilting posture all require prompt veterinary insight to identify mobility disorder causes ranging from vitamin deficiencies to genetics.

Discharge or Injuries
Runny noses, puffy eyes, oozing wounds and retained shed skin stuck on limbs all benefit from medications to resolve. Always have injuries evaluated for potential pain control needs too.

Irregular Defecation & Urination
Digestive slowdowns lead to constipation in dragons, especially with poor hydration intake. Straining repeatedly to pass waste plus darkened urate portion of droppings points to organ trouble. Diarrhea also risks dehydration without anti-diarrheal medication support.

Labored Breathing
Wheezing, mouth gaping, exaggerated breathing motion or stretched out neck positions signal respiratory distress from infection or blockage – scenarios requiring urgent vet intervention to prevent fatal declines.

Anxiety & Unusual Behavior
Glass surfing along habitat walls, jumping repeatedly despite missing limbs, aggression and hiding constantly are abnormal behaviors tied to deeper issues. Underlying causes span husbandry flaws, neurological disease and liver problems – all benefiting from prescription treatment plans.

When To Rush Your Bearded Dragon to Emergency Care

While most scenarios allow reasonably prompt same week veterinary appointments, at home owners must know the subtle signs of true reptile health emergencies requiring emergency immediate care. Rush your bearded dragon to the nearest exotics-experienced emergency vet clinic if you observe:

– Seizure activity
– Complete limb paralysis
– Unconsciousness
– Profuse bleeding from injuries
– Severe vomiting/diarrhea leaving dragon severely lethargic

Catching exotic pet emergencies fast gives dragons the best chance of effective life-saving treatment once the underlying trigger gets diagnosed. Always call ahead so staff prepare a reptile-safe space since many general practices lack proper heating tools on standby.

How To Find a Qualified Reptile Vet

Not all veterinary clinics have extensive exotic pet medicine experience. Finding one proficient in bearded dragons before emergencies strike saves critical time. Here’s how to identify qualified exotics-focused vets:

– Confirm advanced reptile training credentials
– Check for membership in the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians
– Validate they treat bearded dragons routinely
– Ask about common health issues like metabolic bone disease protocols
– Request tour of reptile boarding/hospitalization facilities

Once satisfied with competencies and specialized services, establish your bearded dragon as a new patient for routine well visits plus emergencies. The investment offers peace of mind someone intimately understands your pet’s baseline status when health crises emerge.

Provide The Most Helpful Background Details

To enable accurate diagnoses and treatment plans tailored to your bearded dragon’s history and environment, provide extensive background details. This includes:

– Dragon’s age & how long in your care
– Breeder sourced from if applicable
– Gender, genetic history and related details
– Enclosure dimensions, heating/lighting and other equipment in use
– Exact temperatures maintained across cool and warm ends
– Types of substrates and décor items within habitat
– Complete daily diet including all feeder insects, greens and supplements
– Watering techniques
– Typical dragon activity patterns and behavior

Such exhaustive household data coupled with change onset timing assists vets pinpointing likely illness triggers specific to your bearded dragon’s world. Ongoing logging throughout future appointments further optimizes diagnostic accuracy.

Partner with Your Veterinarian

Herp medicine continues advancing all the time. Forming a collaborative partnership with your reptile-focused vet leverages their constantly expanding knowledge to your bearded dragon’s benefit. Together you’ll make the best decisions for maintaining lifelong wellness tailored to your exotic pet’s evolving needs across every life milestone. Consistent preventative care and prompt issue diagnosis gets problems managed simply before they spiral out of control.

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From the UV lighting, to enclosure size and temperature, creating the perfect space for your scaly friend takes some time and effort but the outcome is well worth it.

We’ll walk you through everything you need to create the perfect environment for your pet lizard. By following these simple tips, you can rest assured that your bearded dragon will be happy and healthy in its new home. Read on to learn more!

Choosing a Tank

Obviously, the first thing to consider when building your bearded dragon setup is a suitable tank. After all, it’s where your beardie will spend the majority of their time. It should provide ample space and a feeling of comfort and security.

Which type of tank should I get?

The best bearded dragon tank setup isn’t contingent any any specific style of tank. There are a variety of materials and shapes out there on the market, you can choose one that works for you. However, there are pros and cons to each material that you’ll want to be aware of.

Glass

A popular choice among new beardie owners, glass tanks tend to be the cheapest and easiest to find. They allow for easy viewing of your pet from all sides and are simple to clean.

However, tanks made only of glass do a poor job of holding in heat. If you plan on using a glass tank, make sure you place it away from drafty windows, radiators, and doors. You will need to be extra vigilant about proper temperature control.

Wood

Wooden enclosures are becoming increasingly popular and are great for holding in heat. Wooden enclosures tend to be more expensive than glass tanks, but are much better suited to providing a stable temperature for your bearding. They also look more attractive and natural, making them a great fit for a living room or bedroom setup.

One thing to keep in mind with wood tanks is that mold can form on them. This can happen if the enclosure is not properly ventilated or if it gets too humid. It’s important to keep an eye out for mold and clean it regularly.

Plastic

These tanks are probably the most advanced options on the market and have improved markedly in recent years. Commonly made of PVC or ABS plastic, they are lightweight, durable and come in a variety of sizes.

It’s typical to see one panel made of a see-through plexiglass with the three other sides made of thicker, opaque material. This allows your pet to have more privacy while still allowing you to view them from the front side.

There are some fancier plastic tank models available for purchase as well. You can find seamless molded terrariums and tanks with built-in lights. If you want to spoil your beardie, these high-end models might be worth an investment eventually, even if they’re not viable with your initial budget.

What size tank should I get?

No matter which tank you choose, make sure it is the appropriate size for your bearded dragon. Babies should be kept in tanks no smaller than 20 gallons, while full-grown adults will need at least 120 gallons

If you’re shopping for tanks for a young bearded dragon, it’s always better to pick a larger tank they they need. This allows your pet to stay settled in one enclosure for a longer period of time, reducing stress.

In addition to size, choose an enclosure that will provide ample vertical space as well. This allows your beardie to climb, basking in the warmth of their UV light fixtures along the way. A good rule of thumb is to chose a tank that is at least as tall as it is wide.

Lighting and Heating for Bearded Dragon Tank Setup

The next most important element of the best bearded dragon tank setup is lighting and heating. These are essential for keeping your pet healthy! Without sufficient light and warmth, including UVA and UVB rays, your beardie won’t be able to process their food and absorb the nutrients they need.

A proper lighting and heating system will be and mounted above the tank and contains a few key parts, namely:

1. UVB Lamp, preferably a Mercury Vapor Bulb (as these provide both UVA and UVB rays)
2. UVA Heat Lamp/Basking Light
3. Humidity Gauge or Hygrometer
4. Thermometer

UVA & UVB Lighting

UVB lighting is essential for your bearded dragon’s health. UVB light helps your pet synthesize Vitamin D3, which assists in the absorption of calcium. Without adequate UVB light, your beardie will struggle to process the calcium they consume and can develop metabolic bone disease.

The best type of UVB bulb to choose is a mercury vapor bulb. These provide both UVA and UVB light, creating a more naturalistic environment for your pet. Mercury vapor bulbs tend to be more expensive than other UVB bulbs, but they last much longer and provide a wider spectrum of light.

UVA Heat Lamp/Basking Light

In addition to UVB lighting, your bearded dragon will need a heat lamp or basking light as well. When choosing a basking light, make sure you pick one that is strong enough to warm your pet to the ideal temperatures. Bearded dragons are cold-blooded creatures and need warmth to regulate their body temperature.

Place your heat lamp or basking light at one end of the tank, creating a hot spot for your pet to bask in. You can then monitor the temperatures at different locations throughout the tank.

Creating a Temperature Gradient

When setting up your enclosure, place the basking lamp or heat-producing UVB lamp at one end of the tank, directed at a basking stone or log (just a flat, heat-absorbing surface that will be easy for your beardie to lounge on).

Placing the heat source on one end of the tank creates a temperature gradient, allowing your pet to choose the temperature they’re most comfortable in and adjust as need. Bearded dragons are cold-blooded reptiles, so they use their environment to regulate their temperature.

The hot end of the enclosure (the side where the heat-producing lamp is) should be about 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool end should be between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.

You can monitor these temperatures with a digital thermometer. Place it at both ends of the tank and watch to make sure they stay in the proper range.

If you find the temperature of either side is too high or low, consider changing the bulb in your lamps to a higher or lower wattage or adjusting the distance between the lamps and your enclosure.

Humidity Gauge/Hygrometer and Thermometer

The next important elements of your bearded dragon setup are a humidity gauge/hygrometer and thermometer. These will help you ensure your pet is living in an environment with the appropriate humidity levels and temperatures. Your beardie needs a specific range of temperature and humidity to stay healthy, so having these items will help you monitor the conditions in your tank.

Humidity levels should stay between 30-40%, while temperatures should be between 75-85°F. Place your hygrometer and thermometer in different locations throughout the tank to make sure the overall temperature and humidity remains within the acceptable range.

Choosing the Right Location

Choosing the perfect location for your pet bearded dragon’s tank or terrarium is a vital part of keeping it healthy and happy.

It should be placed in an area of your home where it will have access to some natural light. However, be careful not to put it in direct sunlight as this can create an overly warm environment and make it difficult for your beardie to regulate its own temperature.

It should also be kept away from any drafty windows, radiators, and frequently open doors, as those pose similar threats to your pet’s ability to regulate its temperature.

It should also be away from direct sources of noise and activity as this can stress out your pet. Remember, beardies and band practice don’t mix!

Finally, check that it is near an outlet so you can easily plug in the numerous lighting and heating elements.

Choosing a Substrate

Deciding on a substrate for your bearded dragon’s home is important to consider.

One of the most popular substrates used are sand or loose soil, since this most closely simulates the bearded dragon’s native habitat.

However, sand can be ingested if it comes into contact with your pet’s food. Ingesting sand can cause severe impaction, so this is not a recommended substrate.

In fact, experts advise against any loose substrate, like gravel, bark, walnut shells, or pine needles.

Instead, opt for a solid substrate such as paper towels, reptile carpet, plastic mesh, or stone tiles. Irregular slabs of slate are a popular choice, as they provide a natural looking flooring and enough traction to keep your scaly friend from sliding around.

The best option, however, is reptile carpet. This substrate has the benefit of being water resistant, easy to clean and softer than tile — making it comfortable for smaller feet! It can be easily removed from an enclosure for convenient cleaning. You can even keep multiple sheets on hand, so that your lizard has a clean and dry area to lounge on, even when you remove one sheet for cleaning.

Create Hiding Spots

Your pet bearded dragon will love having plenty of places to hide among logs, rocks, hammocks and branches.

Creating hiding spots in its terrarium setup can be as simple as arranging logs and rocks together in a way that your dragon can crawl under and feel safe. After all, a bearded dragon’s instinct to hide in tight spaces is a deeply ingrained behavior that helps them feel safe.

You can even purchase special hiding spots, like caves and logs that are specifically designed with dragon-sized hideouts.

Also, adding a hammock for your dragon to curl up under or some safe branches for it to climb over will really spruce up its enclosure and satisfy their need for a sheltering place above the ground.

Food & Water Dishes

When it comes to food and water dishes for your pet bearded dragon, a few simple pieces of equipment (which you probably already have in your kitchen) are sufficient.

Ramekins and small dishes work best for food. The depth of these dishes makes them ideal for keeping your dragon’s food off the substrate and organized in one place.

For water, you can use a shallow bowl or dish as well. A bowl of fresh water is all your pet needs to stay hydrated. And make sure to clean the water dish daily, as it can easily become contaminated if not taken care of properly!

Decorations

To complete your beardie’s home, plants and vines can be added for climbing, plus logs and branches provide basking spots and cover for hiding. These pieces of décor will let your bearded dragon feel like he’s living in his natural habitat! That way, your little reptilian friend will look forward to curling up in his cozy new home.

With just a few simple decorations and plants, you can guarantee your beardie has enough structures to climb and explore.

Of course, make sure any live plants are non-toxic to your reptile friend.

Best Tank Setup for Babies

Once you’ve welcomed a tiny new bearded dragon into your life, creating the best setup for them is essential! Investing in an appropriately-sized terrarium will provide more space and reduce stress during their early development.

For the first couple months of your baby dragon’s life, they’ll be just fine in a smaller home — something like a 20-gallon tank is perfect.

When setting up the terrarium, make sure to provide an appropriate basking area and a cool side. Provide adequate lighting and temperatures on both sides, with the basking side hitting the high end of their comfort range and the cool side on the lower end.

As your baby grows, you’ll need to upgrade their home and provide a larger enclosure for the best bearded tank setup. A 65-75 gallon enclosure will be enough for most juveniles, but full-grown adults will need an even bigger tank to thrive.

You might opt to purchase the large 120-gallon tank right away. This means your little dragon can have plenty of space to explore, and you won’t need to worry about investing in a bigger tank later on!

Summary

Creating the perfect living space for your pet bearded dragon takes a bit of time and thought, but it can be done! With the right products and attention to detail, your best bearded dragon tank setup is easy to create.

Start with a comfortable tank setup that’s large enough for them to move around, add some fun decorations and furniture for enrichment, and don’t forget about food and water dishes. Finally, make sure to invest in proper lighting and temperature control so that your dragon has everything they need to stay healthy and happy.

With these steps, you’ll be able to create an amazing home for your pet beardie!

Happy Reptile Home-Making!

The post Bearded Dragon Tank Setup appeared first on beardie buddy .

After all, they’re cute, charismatic, and love to be handled. Seems like everybody and their brother has one of these scaly babies slinking around in the corner of their home office.

But, hold on! Before you run off to Amazon and irresponsibly purchase the Taj Mahal of terrariums, let’s take a step back and answer the question at hand:

Do bearded dragons make good pets anyway?

It’s time to find out, once and for all.

Pros & Cons

Before you decide if a bearded dragon is right for you, it’s important to consider both the pros and cons of having one. Like any long-term relationship, it’s important to see the full picture before making a commitment (pet divorce court is uglier than you can even imagine).

So let’s take a look at some of the advantages and disadvantages of owning a bearded dragon as a pet — then it’s up to you to decide!

Positives

1. Bearded dragons are low-maintenance pets, requiring less space and care than other reptiles.

2. They can be easily handled and most bearded dragons will learn to recognize their owners over time.

3. They generally have a long lifespan of up to 10 years or more when properly cared for in captivity.

4. Their docile and easy going nature that makes them great pets for all ages, including children and adults alike!

5. With the proper diet and environment, bearded dragons require fewer vet visits than other animals, making them more cost-effective in the long run

Negatives

1. They require a specialized diet and specific housing to stay healthy, which can be time-consuming, expensive, and annoying to find.

2. They can carry parasites and disease, especially salmonella

3. They’re territorial with other bearded dragons. Cohabitation is not always recommended as it could result in fights or stress for both animals.

4. Their poop has an unappealing smell, requiring regular enclosure cleaning

Why are bearded dragons good pets?

Many prospective pet owners are looking for the best of both worlds: a pet that’s low-maintenance, but still interesting and engaging. Bearded dragons fit the bill perfectly!

While they’ll never play fetch with you or learn to water ski, a bearded dragon can still be an entertaining pet, just ask anyone who owns one! Plus, they’re a lot less work than dogs, cats, or water-skiing squirrels.

They’re well behaved

Bearded dragons can bite, but it’s usually only out of self-defense if they feel threatened or scared. That being said, their bite is mild compared to other lizards and snakes, especially when they are young (which happens to be the stage of life when they are most likely to bite).

In general, they do not make a lot of noise and are quite content just to lounge around or explore their environment. As long as they have access to food, water, and some toys to play with, bearded dragons are about as chill as they come.

They’re smart

Intelligence may not be the first thing to come to mind when you think reptiles, but a domesticated bearded dragon will display some smart behavior, especially when trained and bonded with over time.

Beardies learn to recognize their caregivers over time and can even develop a unique bond with them. This is why you may have seen so many videos of bearded dragons sitting on their owner’s lap and rubbing up against them (like cats, only with more spikes and less contempt).

Some will even learn basic tricks, like coming when called or anticipating feeding.

Bearded dragons are generally curious about the world and enjoy exploring. It’s possible to train them to go for walks on a leash!

They’re affordable

The average bearded dragon will cost you about $40 to $600. Rarer varieties will cost more than that, while most pet stores and local breeders have young beardies available at lower end of that range. It’s considerable less than you’d spend on many other pets.

Even with an initial cost of buying a bearded dragon that may seem steep (once you buy the basic enclosure setup and starter supplies), they’re actually quite affordable in the long run.

Not only are bearded dragons relatively low maintenance pets, they require far fewer resources than larger animals like cats or dogs. You don’t need to worry about buying expensive food or litter, and veterinary care for bearded dragons is often cheaper as well.

Their diet is easy to maintain and consists mostly of insects and house hold fruits and vegetables. This makes it easy to stock up on necessary ingredients at your local grocery store — no special trips needed.

They’re easy to care for

Unlike cats or dogs, bearded dragons don’t need to be walked, bathed, or groomed. Instead, they just need their habitat to be kept clean and their diet monitored.

Compared to other reptilian pets, like tortoises and chameleons, bearded dragons are not too finicky about their enclosures or food. They’re quieter than birds, less dangerous than snakes, and more fun than a pet fish.

Plus they’ve been known to get along with your furry friends! Dogs and bearded dragons can coexist peacefully , provided your canine is not aggressive or overly energetic.

They’re a good size

While they won’t always stay as tiny and cute as they are when they’re babies, bearded dragons only grow to a moderate size, usually between 16 and 24 inches in length. That makes them an ideal pet for both large and small living spaces — even apartments!

Of course, you’ve probably heard nightmare stories about boa constrictors and iguanas that grow to untenable proportions, leaving their owners surprised and overwhelmed.

Thankfully, bearded dragons stay a modest and predictable size, only requiring a single moderate-sized tank for their whole life.

They eat a basic diet

Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning that their diet is composed of both plant- and animal-based foods.

This simple diet means that bearded dragon owners never have to worry about preparing complicated meals involving specialized ingredients or processes — just toss in some nutritious crickets with some veggies, and your bearded dragon will be happy as can be!

They’re good for kids & families

Unlike most other pets, bearded dragons are relatively hands-off and happy to stay in a well-kept enclosure.

They don’t require too much interaction and can happy coexist with their owners without any fuss.

This makes bearded dragons an ideal pet for families with young kids who may not be ready to take care of a more demanding pet.

Bearded dragons are also fairly easy to maintain, so parents need not worry about their children inadvertently creating unhealthy living conditions for their beloved bearded dragon pal.

Bearded dragons have surprisingly outgoing personalities that lend themselves to amusing antics. They love basking under lamps or eating crickets off your finger — activities that often prove to be quite entertaining for kids.

Bonding with bearded dragons can also help children become more compassionate and less fearful of animals in general, as bearded dragons are not typically aggressive when handled properly.

They have a long life expectancy

Bearded dragons have been known to live up to twelve years in captivity. This makes bearded dragons an ideal pet choice for those who are looking for a longer-term companion.

As bearded dragons get older, they become more docile and less active at night, becoming easier to take care of as time passes.

With proper and consistent care, they are hardier than most other reptiles, reducing the number of trips to the vet and the likelihood of premature terminal illness.

Why you shouldn’t get a bearded dragon

Despite all their many winning characteristics, bearded dragons are not be the best choice for everyone. In this section, we will explore why bearded dragons might not be suitable for certain situations or people (and why you might be better off sticking with that gold fish you won at the fair). Bearded dragons are good pets for some people, but not everyone.

They stink

Bearded dragons have an odor which some people find unpleasant. This is because, like any animal, they poop frequently.

This means that the enclosure will need regular cleaning and fresh bedding. Keeping up with this task will help reduce the smell of the enclosure and your pet, leading to a happier coexistence.

If you are sensitive to smells, you may find the chore of cleaning out your beardie’s enclosure to be unpalatable. In which case, you should either invest in a quality clothespin or stick to your pet rock.

They’re solitary creatures

Bearded dragons are notoriously solitary animals. While they may enjoy the occasional interaction with you, they don’t need a second bearded dragon to be happy and content. This means that bearded dragons prefer to live the life of a bachelor (or bachelorette).

Here’s the rule of thumb:

Never put two males together in the same tank. Female-female or male-female pairings can work, however, with the latter, you should be mindful of the possibility of reproduction.

They need special lighting

These little guys need special lighting to keep them happy and healthy. If you’re considering owning a bearded dragon as a pet, you’ll have to make sure you can provide a good quality UVB light, as well as a basking spot.

UVB lights can be expensive, and the process of setting it up correctly can be daunting, but they’re a vital part of ensuring your bearded dragon has a comfortable bungalow to call home. Furthermore, UVB aids in digestion and metabolize, helping to prevent metabolic bone disease (a common and serious condition for domesticated reptiles).

They come with health risks

Bearded dragons can be susceptible to different types of health problems including metabolic bone disease, intestinal parasites and respiratory infections. While these conditions are treatable, they can be costly to manage and require regular veterinary check-ups.

Additionally, they come with some health risks for their human roommates as well. As they are known carriers of salmonella, bearded dragons should not be handled by small children or anyone with a weak immune system. Thorough hand-washing and sanitization after handling are a must.

It should go without saying, but the risk of salmonella exposure also means a bearded dragon should never come into contact with food preparation areas (though a beardie remake of Ratatouille would be compelling cinema).

Should I get a bearded dragon?

Bearded dragons can be wonderful pets for those who are ready to commit to taking care of them. They can provide years of companionship and entertainment, as they have pleasant personalities, playful dispositions and inquisitive natures.

Bearded dragons also require less space than some other reptiles and can be fed a variety of easily accessible foods.

However, bearded dragons come with many unique responsibilities, and they may not be the right pet for everyone. They are animals that require special habitats, specific care, and some unique concerns.

Before deciding to own any pet, it is important to understand the full scope of caring for them. Do not make a rash decision, as this can create unwanted years of stress and unhappiness for you and the animal.

If you’re ready to provide the necessary commitment and care that bearded dragons require, then they might just be the perfect pet for you!

The post Bearded Dragons Good Pets appeared first on beardie buddy .

Understanding the average bearded dragon size and growth rate can help you better care for your pet during each life stage. This guide covers key factors that impact size, typical growth timelines, and tips to support healthy growth.

Key Factors That Impact Bearded Dragon Size

Several elements influence the ultimate size your bearded dragon reaches, including:

– Breed: Some breed variations tend to grow larger than others. For example, German giant bearded dragons are known to reach 24 inches long.

– Gender: Male bearded dragons generally grow significantly larger than females.

– Enclosure size: Bearded dragons limited by small enclosures may exhibit stunted growth.

– Diet: Nutrition directly impacts size and growth rates. Feeding a high-quality, diverse diet supports reaching full size potential.

– Genetics: Like humans, genetics play a key role in the size bearded dragons reach. Dragons from parents on the smaller end may stay smaller.

Typical Bearded Dragon Growth Timelines

While outliers exist in both directions, most bearded dragons follow a fairly predictable growth pattern if cared for properly. Here’s what to expect:

Hatchling (0-3 months): 5-7 inches
Newly hatched dragons are tiny – some breeders even dub them “pocket pets.” They are extremely delicate at this age and require specialized care.

Juvenile (3-12 months): 7-15 inches
This is the key growth phase where bearded dragons can double or even triple in size. Their appetites pick up dramatically during this time to support rapid development. Provide ample feeder insects.

Subadult (12-18 months): 16-20 inches
Growth begins slowing but hasn’t completely stopped yet. Expect subtle size gains each month leading up to adulthood size.

Adult (18+ months): 18-24 inches
By a year and a half, most bearded dragons have reached their full adult stature. Males in particular may continue gradual growth even as mature adults.

Exceptionally large bearded dragons are rare but can reach lengths exceeding 24 inches from head to tail.

Tips for Supporting Healthy Bearded Dragon Growth

A bearded dragon’s genetics may dictate their base size potential – but there’s lots owners can do to help them thrive and maximize growth potential along the way including:

– Meeting enclosure size requirements
– Providing proper lighting and heating
– Ensuring adequate humidity
– Feeding a balanced, nutrient-rich diet
– Providing opportunities for healthy exercise
– Minimizing stress
– Following vet health check recommendations

It’s equally important to avoid overfeeding even if aiming for size, as excess weight can cause health issues. Work closely with your exotic vet to tailor nutrition and husbandry to support your bearded dragon’s growth needs.

How Big Are Bearded Dragons Compared to Other Reptiles?

While imposing compared to hatchlings, full-grown bearded dragons are modestly sized compared to many other reptile species popular as pets. For perspective:

– Smaller than leopard geckos at 8-11 inches
– Similar in size to blue tongue skinks at 16-20 inches
– Smaller than savannah monitors at 4+ feet long
– Significantly smaller than large constricting snakes like ball pythons stretching 5-6 feet

So while they may outgrow their pocket pet stage fairly quickly, adult bearded dragons are still a reasonably compact lizard species compared to some – one more reason they make great pets!

Monitor Growth & Adjust Husbandry Strategies as Needed

Bearded dragons exhibit the most visible growth spurts during the first year of life. It’s essential owners monitor increases and expand their habitat size accordingly to prevent stunting.

If your bearded dragon’s growth seems slow based on age or their appetite and activity levels decline, consult your exotic vet. Nutritional deficiencies, illness, parasites, and other issues can impact normal development. Treating underlying health conditions may help get your pet back on track size-wise.

Remember that premature oversized reptiles face potential health issues later in life just like undersized ones. While it’s exciting seeing your bearded dragon grow by leaps and bounds, steady measured development aligned to their age is ideal both for immediate health and long-term wellness.

FAQs About Bearded Dragon Size

New bearded dragon owners understandably have lots of questions about these fascinating reptiles’ size and growth characteristics. Here are answers to some of the most common queries:

How long will my bearded dragon grow?
Bearded dragons grow rapidly for the first 12-18 months, then more slowly until hitting adult size around 18 months old. However, subtle growth is possible even in mature adults.

What is the biggest bearded dragon on record?
The longest confirmed bearded dragon was recently measured at over 27 inches long. However extraordinarily large size like this is quite rare.

Can poor care stunt a bearded dragon’s growth?
Yes, factors like poor diet, small enclosures, improper temperatures and more can all prevent a bearded dragon from reaching its ideal size. Correcting husbandry is important if a bearded dragon seems small for their age.

At what age is a bearded dragon full grown?
While the most rapid growth tapers off around 18 months old, bearded dragons continue subtle growing through adulthood. Think of them as full grown around 1.5-2 years old.

Can my bearded dragon grow too big?
While most owners want their bearded dragons as large as possible, excessive size can cause health issues later in life similar to obesity in dogs or cats. Growth aligned with breed standards is healthiest.

Monitor Your Bearded Dragon’s Growth Journey
One of the joys of bearded dragon ownership is marveling at how rapidly these pets develop from delicate babies to confident reptilian adults. Keeping growth on track takes attentive husbandry adjusted to support their needs at each life stage. But the effort pays off through a healthy lifelong bond with your dragon. I hope this How Big Do Bearded Dragons Get Size Growth Guide article helps you.

The post How Big Do Bearded Dragons Get Size Growth Guide appeared first on beardie buddy .

Bearded dragons require an environment with just the right amount of humidity in order to live long and prosperous lives. But how do you get that balance just right? Don’t worry — we have all the answers here in this ultimate guide on humidity for your bearded dragon.

We’ll cover everything from what is ideal humidity levels are, to how to raise or lower them if necessary, as well as why getting it right is so important. So let’s start learning!

When it comes to keeping a bearded dragon as a pet, temperature is often the first thing that new owners think about. After all, everyone knows that reptiles need warmth in order to survive and thrive.

However, what many people fail to realize is that humidity levels are just as important for the health of their reptile friend!

Proper humidity levels can help keep your bearded dragon healthy and comfortable while providing them with an environment similar to their natural habitat in the Australian outback. Getting the right balance between temperature and humidity can be tricky, but with some knowledge and effort you can create a perfect home for your scaly companion.

In their natural habitat, bearded dragons typically have a relative humidity (RH) of 35-40%. This is the typical range for the arid to semi-arid regions of the Australian Outback to which bearded dragons are native.

They love a dry heat!

These native habitats in New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia and Victoria are very dry. There is not much rain or humidity in these regions. They usually have hot temperatures and little vegetation. As a result, bearded dragons are adapted for maximum comfort and optimal health in environments with these conditions.

In captivity, it is important to recreate the natural environment of a bearded dragon as closely as possible. This means providing an enclosure with humidity levels that are between 35-40%.

The relative humidity (RH) of your bearded dragon’s tank should be 35-40%. Relative humidity means the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum possible for that temperature. The best way to measure humidity levels is with a hygrometer. This should be calibrated to ensure accuracy, as this will help you maintain the correct levels of humidity in your pet’s enclosure.

You shouldn’t expect the humidity level of your bearded dragon’s tank to automatically register at the ideal 35-40%. You may need to make adjustments in order to achieve this.

Fortunately, there are a few easy methods for raising or lowering the humidity in your pet’s enclosure.

1. Make sure the water bowl is away from any heat sources in the tank, as this can lead to excessive evaporation of water.

2. Equip your tank with a mesh lid, or one that allows for ample ventilation. Solid enclosure tops restrict ventilation and prevent air exchange with the outside environment, resulting in higher humidity levels.

3. Place a dehumidifier in or near the tank, as this can help to absorb moisture from the air and lower the humidity levels.

4. Use a fan to help circulate the air in the room and lower the humidity in your tank.

5. Decrease the amount of natural plants in your beardie’s tank. These can often release moisture into the air, making it more humid.

Mesh tops allow for greater air circulation and help lower humidity

1. Place the water bowl closer to heat sources in the tank, as this will help to evaporate more moisture into the air.

2. Periodically spray the enclosure with a misting bottle. This will add moisture to the air and increase the humidity levels.

3. Increase the amount of natural plants in your pet’s tank, as this will help absorb water throughout the day and release it into the air.

4. Place a humidifier in or near to your tank, as this will help add moisture to the air and increase the humidity levels.

There’s no way to accurately measure the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s enclosure without a hygrometer. It is important to calibrate the hygrometer before using it, as this will help ensure the accuracy of your readings.

A hygrometer is a digital or analog device that measures the relative humidity (RH) of the surrounding air. Most hygrometers are simple to use and come with instructions on how to calibrate. Once you have the device set up, you can easily monitor the levels of humidity in your pet’s enclosure and make the necessary adjustments to ensure it is always within the correct range.

These models are usually cheaper than digital ones and are easy to use. They also require no batteries, so they can last a very long time with proper maintenance. Mechanical hygrometers indicate the relative humidity of surrounding air with a moving needle.

However, mechanical hygrometers can be more difficult to calibrate and may not give you an accurate reading of the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank.

Additionally, they must be kept inside the tank. Some owners grow frustrated with the bulky size of mechanical hygrometers, as they can take up valuable space in a reptile tank.

These devices, also called probe hygrometers, are more expensive than mechanical models, but they offer the most accurate readings and make it easier to monitor the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s enclosure.

Digital hygrometers have a probe that can be placed inside the tank, which gives you more precise readings of the humidity levels. They are also easier to calibrate and require less maintenance than mechanical models.

Some owners like that they can simply position the probe in the tank and leave the bulky device outside. This allows them to conserve more space in the bearded dragon’s enclosure.

For the most accurate readings, you should place the hygrometer in the center of your bearded dragon’s tank. This will ensure that you get an accurate measure of the average humidity levels throughout the enclosure.

• Place the device away from direct heat sources, as these can give false readings
• Make sure that the probe of the hygrometer is not covered and can receive an accurate reading
• Position your hygrometer in an area that is not blocked by rocks, logs or other items in the enclosure. Avoid placing next to live plants, as these give off moisture that can throw off readings
• Do not place the hygrometer in a corner of the tank, as this can give false readings
• Clean the hygrometer regularly to ensure dust and particles are not interfering with the device

It is important to maintain the proper humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank for its overall health and wellbeing. Levels that are too low or too high can lead not only to stress and discomfort, but also to serious health issues that could be fatal.

If you suspect your pet is suffering from a humidity-related issue, it is important to seek out professional veterinary care as soon as possible and work to correct the humidity levels in its enclosure.

Excess humidity causes many health issues for bearded dragons, including:

• Respiratory infections
• Bacterial growth
• Fungal growth
• Ulcerative or necrotic dermatitis
• Mycotic disease

A lack of humidity can cause health problems also, including:

• Dehydration
• Avascular necrosis
• Renal disease
• Non-obstructive dystocia

All of the diseases listed above can be prevented with proper monitoring of the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank. With the right hygrometer and some careful attention to detail, you can ensure your pet enjoys a healthy and happy life.

Maintaining the right humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank is essential for its health and happiness. By using a hygrometer, you can keep track of the humidity levels in your reptile’s enclosure and take steps to correct it when necessary.

Armed with the right tricks for lowering or raising humidity as needed and some tips on the best placement of your hygrometer, you can ensure that your pet enjoys a comfortable and healthy home.

The post Ultimate Guide To Bearded Dragon Humidity [Tips & Tricks] appeared first on beardie buddy .

Natural Environment

The Inland Bearded Dragon lives in the arid woodlands and deserts of central Australia. It spends much of its waking hours in bushes and trees, and is also found basking on rocks. When it is extremely hot, the bearded dragon will burrow underground. The bearded dragon is diurnal and an omnivore. It forages for food such as insects, small lizards and mammals, fruit, flowers, and other plant material during the day time.

Physical Characteristics

The Bearded Dragon is tan to yellow in color. It is called “bearded” because of the dragon’s ability to flare out the skin in the throat region when it is threatened or territorial. Its body has a flattened appearance, which becomes even more pronounced if the dragon is alarmed. There are spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body. The head is wedge-shaped, and the Bearded Dragon has a tail that is almost as long as the body.

It is difficult to distinguish males from females among hatchlings and juveniles. When they become adults, sexual differences become more apparent. The males generally have larger heads and larger, darker beards. The femoral pores of males also help to distinguish them from females.

Quick Stats: Bearded Dragon

Family: Agamidae

 Origin: Australia

 Size: Adult males up to 2 feet in length (including tail)

 Diet: Omnivorous: Chopped meat, crickets, pinky mice, earthworms, leafy greens, squash; may want separate feeding tank

 Water: Water dish, droplets, misting

 Terrarium: 10-15 gallon aquarium for hatchlings; minimum of 55-60 gallon for adults

 Substrate: Playground sand, indoor/outdoor carpet, newspaper

 Decoration: Hidebox; provide rocks and branches for climbing and basking

 Lighting: Fluorescent full spectrum lighting with UVB

 Temperatures: 78-88°F; basking area of 95-100°F; night time temperatures in the 70’s

 Compatibility: Typically social; bearded dragons of similar size can be housed together, but should be monitored; appear to enjoy interaction with humans

 Sexing: Males have larger heads, darker beards, and enlarged femoral pores

 Life Expectancy: 10 years

Source: Animal Planet

Link: http://animal.discovery.com/guides/reptiles/iguanas/beardeddragon.html                                                                                                                                                                                       

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In this article, you’ll learn how to feed and care fot your baby bearded dragon. We’ll cover how to setup a tank for a baby dragon, review a recommended feeding schedule, and how fast a baby bearded dragon will grow.

A baby bearded dragon is all you’ve ever wanted (or at least, it has been for the last couple weeks).

But before you snag the first lizard infant in sight, spend some time and care finding a pet who will be a great fit for your home:

Note: Most breeders or pet stores hold on to babies until they are about 4–6 weeks old. It’s not recommended to re-home a bearded dragon younger than this. They’re too fragile and easily stressed.

You should only purchase a baby bearded dragon from a reputable breeder or pet shop. Wild-caught bearded dragons are often mistreated and obtained unethically or even illegally, so stick with a domesticated dragon from a trusted provider.

When choosing your new friend, look for an active baby with clear eyes, smooth skin, and strong bones. Make sure your beardie can support his weight on all four legs, and that it is active and moving around the enclosure (lethargy, closed eyes, and unhealthy looking skin can be signs of illness).

The “baby” stage for a bearded dragons is short, from birth to the time they are about five months old. Once they hit this mark, they are now considered juvenile—with a whole new set of space and dietary needs.

The most reliable method of sexing a bearded dragon is examining the hemipenal bulges (located near the underside of the base of the tail). These bulges are not fully pronounced until a bearded dragon is about 9–12 weeks old. It is almost impossible for an untrained eye to tell the gender before this stage.

If you buy from an experienced breeder, they might be able to tell you if your baby is a boy or a girl—but even these experts aren’t right every time!

So don’t commit to the whole pink motif for the enclosure until your dragon is old enough to be sexed reliable!

Nothing will make your baby beardie feel at home like a safe, secure enclosure. Taking the extra time to set up a proper habitat will pay off in the long run for both baby and owner.

Baby bearded dragons require much smaller enclosures than their adult counterparts—a 20-gallon tank is usually the max size for baby dragon housing.

Of course, your pet will need to graduate to a larger home as he or she grows. Once your baby reaches the juvenile stage (around 4 months old), you should upgrade them to an enclosure no smaller than 40-50 gallons with lots of climbing space and room for growth.

Some owners up to purchase an adult-sized tank (120 gallons) and let their beardie grow into it. In most cases, this is fine (and financially prudent), but some babies might feel insecure and intimidated with too much space.

All beardies need plenty of light, including UVA and UVB rays, which they require to properly metabolize their food.

In their enclosure, you’ll need:

• UVB lamp
• UVA bulb (50–70 watts)

Leave these bulbs running for 12 hours a day during the day.

Your baby beardie will need a range of temperatures in their tank to stay comfortable. One end of the tank should be cooler (about 75–80 degrees Fahrenheit), while the other side should be a bit hotter (95–105 degrees).

To achieve this effect (known as a temperature gradient), place the heating source (either your heat-producing UVA bulb or a separate basking light) at one end of the enclosure. The other end, far away from the heat-produced light, will stay cooler.

The temperature of the cooler end of the enclosure should not drop below 70°F at night. You’ll need a thermometer to measure these temperatures accurately, and a ceramic heater to run at night if you find the tank is getting too chilly.

Hailing from a semi-arid climate, baby bearded dragons require humidity levels in their tanks of 30–40%.

You’ll need a hygrometer (humidity gauge) to measure this accurately, as well as a spray bottle and/or humidifier if the readings come up on the dry side.

Substrate is the material used to line your baby beardie’s tank. While some owners choose to go with sand, this isn’t recommended for baby dragons. Any small particles can be accidentally ingested, causing serious digestive issues.

Rather than sand, consider using newspaper or tile as a substrate—easy to clean and much safer for baby dragons. If you do decide to use something else, make sure it’s non-toxic and large enough for baby dragons not to accidentally ingest.

Baby bearded dragons require the same decorations as their adult counterparts—a hiding spot for security, some branches for climbing and perching, and plenty of rocks to lounge on.

A rock or log should be set up underneath their basking lamp as well, something comfortable for baby dragons to rest on while they get their daily dose of heat and UV rays

It’s important that baby dragons can explore their habitats safely—make sure there are no sharp edges or anything else baby dragon tykes could injure themselves on!

Baby bearded dragons should eat a protein-heavy diet with portions of green vegetables mixed-in for healthy growth and development. The ratio of protein to plant material should be 75% to 25%. As they grow, the recommended diet becomes much more veggie-centric.

If you are using live crickets the protein source, your baby bearded dragon should eat between 20–40 crickets a day, spread out throughout the day.

Dubia roaches and superworms are acceptable foods as well. Always opt for gut-loaded varieties, as they are more nutritious.

Whichever insect you feed your baby bearded dragon, make sure they are not too big. A good rule of thumb is to choose insects that are about the same size as the distance between your dragons eyes.

Your baby will likely be a voracious eater and rapid grower. Feeding every three hours throughout the day for a total of four meals is the best feeding routine for a baby bearded dragon.

This is a sample schedule you can follow to figure out when to feed your baby:

8 AM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens

11 AM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens and green bell peppers

2 PM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely choped broccoli and strawberries

5 PM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens and carrots

Tip: Place live insect food in the enclosure first and give your beardie 10 minutes to eat as many as they can. After the 10 minutes, take out the remaining insects and place the veggies (in a small dish or ramekin) in the tank for your pet to snack on until the next feeding).

Bonus Tip: Mix powdered calcium supplement in with your beardie’s food 2–3 times a work to make sure your baby is getting all the nutrients they need to avoid metabolic bone disease.

Your baby bearded dragon will grow fast! While you might wish you could freeze time and keep them small forever, by the time she’s five months old, your baby is now a juvenile.

Babies start out around 3–4 inches long, then grow about 1–3 inches per month through their juvenile stage. Their weight increases from 4–6 grams up to about 102 grams by the time they are a juvenile.

Bearded dragons grow until they become full-sized adults at about 12 months old. Some will keep growing until they are about 18–24 months old.

Adult female bearded dragons will reach 16–20 inches in length, males grow to a slightly larger size of 18–24 inches long.

(Cherish your little buddy’s diminutive size while it lasts!)

Bearded dragons are gentle creatures and can be handled, but baby dragons require extra care. Handle your baby very carefully and only for short periods at first until they are comfortable with it.

Avoid handling baby beardies too frequently as this can cause stress – so handle them just enough to allow them to become accustomed to their human companions.

If your baby is skittish, try putting your hand in the tank with some pieces of their favorite fruit and allowing them to crawl on it until they become comfortable.

(Who could say no to sliced grapes?)

With baby beardies, patience is key! She’ll come around if you give her enough time and love.

Caring for baby bearded dragons requires patience and dedication. They’re not quite as demanding as their human counterparts, but they still require a healthy diet, proper habitat and careful monitoring to ensure their wellbeing.

Remember, you should feed baby bearded dragons 20–40 crickets or dubia roaches a day spread out in four meals throughout the day, along with their plant-based foods and calcium supplements. Provide a comfortable habitat with an adequate temperature gradient and stable climate.

Your baby will grow rapidly and soon enough become an adult bearded dragon. The care you provide at this early stage will ensure your baby dragon grows into a happy, healthy reptile.

Have fun with the process and enjoy watching your baby grow!

The post How To Care For A Baby Bearded Dragon [Feeding Tips & More] appeared first on beardie buddy .

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From rocks that double as nail files to hammocks made from woven plants, the possibilities are endless when it comes to creating a unique and inviting space for your pet! So what are you waiting for?

Let’s get started on creating the perfect habitat for your beloved beardie!

It is very important to get the temperature, humidity, and UV light conditions right in a bearded dragon tank before you start adding decorations. These conditions have to be just right so that your pet can stay healthy and happy in their home.

Check out our related guides here to ensure you’ve got these essentials right:

If the temperature, humidity, and UVB exposure are not correct, your bearded dragon could experience stress or become sick. So it is best to make sure these things are taken care of first before worrying about decorating!

UVB and basking lamp set up in a bearded dragon tank

Basking rocks and basking logs are the centerpiece of your bearded dragon tank. They provide a flat, heat-absorbent surface that can elevate your pet closer to the basking lamp in order to absorb its warmth. Basking spots also offer comfort and security for your beardie, as they allow them to get away from the ground if they feel threatened.

Look for basking rocks or logs that are specifically designed for reptiles. These materials should be safe, non-toxic and easy to clean. There are options available in a variety of colors and shapes.

Basking rocks or logs designed for reptiles other than bearded dragons (iguanas, geckos, snakes) will work just fine for your beardie.

Natural basking rocks and logs can be introduced to the tank as well. However, it’s recommended that you disinfect them first. Soak the rock or log in a solution of water and bleach or vinegar, then allow it to dry thoroughly.

A basking log is essential bearded dragon tank decor!

Everybody needs some alone time, and that includes beardies. Bearded dragons love hiding places!

Providing your dragon with a hollow log or cave gives them somewhere to go when they need some privacy or feel the need to escape from whatever is stressing them out. Again, make sure that these hiding places are specifically made for reptiles and free from any sharp edges.

You can also create a hiding place by stacking rocks or driftwood in the tank. Just make sure that they are stable and won’t fall on your bearded dragon!

These hiding places should be located away from the basking spot, so that your pet can completely relax and get away from the heat.

Bearded dragons need dishes for their food and water. Food bowls should have taller sides to keep food and surrounding material separate. This helps cleanliness and reduces risk of impaction.

Bearded dragons can be pretty clumsy at meal time, so look for dishes with a wide, stable base. This will help prevent your pet from spilling or tipping over the bowl while they are eating.

Standard small ramekins and shallow dishes make great food and water dishes. Some owners prefer the natural look of faux rock dishes available at pet stores and online retailers.

A flagstone is a flat sedimentary rock with a rough surface. Flagstones make great functional decor for bearded dragon tanks!

When your beardie walks across the flagstone’s rough service, their nails will naturally file down. It is good for a bearded dragon’s nails to get filed down and stay at a healthy length.

What’s the benefit of filed down nails? For one, it reduces the risk that your beardie will scrape or scratch you while being handled. Additionally, it ensures that your dragon’s nails won’t catch on materials around their environment, making it easier for them to move around.

Flagstones come in a variety of colors, patterns, and shapes. Choose one that best suits your style as well as the size of your dragon’s tank.

Live plants can help create a naturalistic atmosphere in your bearded dragon tank. Live plants are preferable to artificial plants, since dragons can and will try to eat anything in their habitat. Plastic leaves make for a toxic snack and are not recommended as bearded dragon tank decor.

We suggest getting non-toxic and reptile-safe plants, as some plants contain toxins that could be harmful to your pet. Additionally, many live plants can become large and take up a lot of space in the tank, so make sure to get ones that fit your space.

Here some recommenced plants that are safe for your bearded dragon’s tank:

It’s important not to overcrowd the tank with live plants. Not only can this leave your beardie feeling claustrophobic it can create excess humidity, which is not ideal for your dragon.

When it comes to wall decor, bearded dragons do not have discriminating taste. You can create a realistic landscape backdrop with the help of printed backgrounds or you can go for something more abstract — whatever you like!

Printed backgrounds can be found online and there are lots of styles to choose from. To install a background, simply attach it to the outside of the tank using velcro, tape, or Command strips.

If you’re feeling creative, you can also create your own backdrop using paint or markers. Your beardie will love the personal touch (just kidding, they probably won’t care… but do what makes you happy).

Desert background in a bearded dragon tank

There’s nothing better than an afternoon nap in a hammock. Your beardie agrees! That’s why a hammock, swing, or climber is essential bearded dragon tank decor. Providing your pet with a hammock gives them a place to relax, soak up the heat, and take in the view.

There are plenty of options on the market. A hammock made from woven plant fibers is the best choice, since this material is non-toxic if swallowed. Most hammocks can be easily attached to the inside of the tank with suction cups.

Bearded dragon tank with hammocks and swings for climbing

Once you have provided a basking spot, a place to hide, and some stuff to climb, you can fill out the tank decor with some other fun pieces.

Drift wood is a popular option and can be used to create an interesting landscape or a bridge between rocks. Just make sure you disinfect any driftwood you find in nature before placing it in the tank.

Some beardie owners like to add miniature furniture, such as a tiny chair or desk, to create a cozy living space for their pet. These conversation pieces are a fine addition, as long as they are made of material that is non-toxic and won’t hold bacteria (avoid soft fabrics or plastic).

Bearded dragons can benefit from a carefully crafted habitat, and decorating their tank is a fun way to make it both aesthetically pleasing and practical.

From live plants and flagstones to backgrounds and hammocks, there are lots of ways to spruce up your dragon’s home. Just make sure to choose non-toxic material that won’t hold bacteria, and avoid overcrowding the tank.

With a few creative touches, your pet will have an inviting home that offers a safe and stimulating environment.

Happy decorating!

The post Bearded Dragon Tank Decor Guide [Best Ideas For Your Tank] appeared first on beardie buddy .

Here, you can find a long list of bearded dragon names to choose from. Whilst the list contains many real names of bearded dragons from around the world, there are also a lot of new names that I’m not aware are being used.

When trying to think of a name for your bearded dragon, you can draw inspiration from things like; characters from your favorite TV program/film, music artists you like, favorite sports stars, favorite people from history and words that mean ‘dragon’ in different languages.

Remember, your bearded dragon’s name will be for life, so make sure you pick a good one

•Aaron

 •Abe

 •Ace

 •Adelaide

 •Adonais

 •Ahab

 •aiden

 •Aja

 •Ajax

 •Al Borlin

 •Alcott

 •ally

 •Alpo

 •Amadeus

 •Amber

 •Ammy

 •Amos

 •Amy

 •Angel

 •Anna

 •Anton

 •Apollo

 •Ardith

 •Argus

 •Ariel

 •Arlian

 •Arnie

 •Arriba

 •Artemis

 •Arther

 •Astrid

 •Athena

 •Atila

 •Atilla

 •Aurelia

 •Aurora

 •Aussie

 •Austin

 •Azul

 •Babbit

 •Baby

 •Bach

 •Bailey

 •Balderdash

 •Balls

 •Bandit

 •Barb

 •Barbeque

 •Barnabas

 •Barney

 •Baryshnikov

 •baykal

 •Beamer

 •Beardie

 •Beardy

 •Beau

 •Bender

 •Bentley

 •Bernhard

 •Betty

 •Big Ben

 •Big Bertha

 •Big Boy

 •Big Red

 •Billabong

 •Bindi

 •Bindy

 •Binks

 •Biscuit

 •Biskuit

 •Bitsy

 •Bitsy

 •Blackie

 •Blade

 •Blaze

 •Blondie

 •Blubeard

 •blue

 •Blue Streak

 •Bluebeard

 •Bluetegu

 •Boat

 •Bob

 •Bobber

 •Bogart

 •Boise

 •Bondi

 •Boogy

 •Borealis

 •Borg

 •Bowie

 •Bragon Dragon

 •Brandy

 •Breeze

 •Brody

 •Browning

 •Bruce

 •Bruce-Lee

 •Bubba

 •Buddah

 •Buddy

 •Burt

 •Bush

 •Buster

 •Butch

 •Butter

 •Cactus

 •Caesar

 •Canberra

 •Carlitos

 •Carlos

 •Carrot

 •Casanova

 •Cashmere

 •Casper

 •Catarina

 •Catherine

 •Ceaser

 •Ceaser

 •Ceru

 •Cha-Cha

 •Chachi

 •Champlain

 •Chance

 •Chaos

 •Chaquita

 •Charge

 •Charizard

 •Charmander

 •Chaz

 •Cheech

 •Cheesewinkle

 •Cherie

 •Chester

 •Chewie

 •Chimera

 •Cholla

 •Chombo

 •Chomp

 •Chomper

 •Choo-Choo

 •Chopin

 •Christie

 •Cilla

 •Clark

 •Clary

 •Claws

 •Cleo

 •Cleopatra

 •Cliffhanger

 •Cloe

 •Clover

 •Clyde

 •Cobber

 •Cola

 •Coleridge

 •Con

 •Cooper

 •Copper

 •Cornolio

 •Corona

 •Crackers

 •Crayola

 •Crikey

 •Critter

 •Croc

 •Crocker

 •Cronos

 •Crunch

 •Crush

 •Crusty

 •Cutie-Pie

 •Cuvier

 •Czar Czarina

 •Daisy Belle

 •Dakota

 •Damien

 •Dandy

 •Dantie

 •Dare Devil

 •Darius

 •Darvarus

 •Darwin

 •Dawn

 •Ddraig (Welsh for Dragon)

 •Dede

 •Delores

 •Demon

 •Demonicus (aka Demon)

 •Dexter

 •Dharma

 •Diablo

 •Didgeridoo Bottlebrush Bandicoot

 •Digger

 •Digger

 •Diji

 •Dillian

 •Dino

 •Dominic

 •Don Juan

 •Donald

 •Doobie

 •Doom

 •Doragord

 •Doyle

 •Draco

 •Drago

 •Dragonbait

 •Drake

 •Dreamy

 •Dreyco

 •Duchess Duke

 •Ducky

 •Dude

 •Dumpling

 •Dumpy

 •Durangeo

 •Durango

 •Dustin

 •Dynamo

 •Eagle

 •Ebert

 •Echidna

 •Eclipse

 •Eddie

 •Edson

 •Eidie

 •Einstein

 •Eki

 •El Cid

 •Electra

 •Elmo

 •Elvis

 •Elwood

 •Emerald

 •Emerson

 •Emmerson

 •Eran

 •Ernest

 •Ernie

 •ET

 •Euphoria

 •Fafnir

 •Falstaff

 •Fatty

 •Faust

 •Ferocious

 •Feynman

 •Finch

 •Fire Mama

 •Flash

 •Fletcher

 •Flip

 •Flower

 •Fluffy

 •Fox

 •Frank

 •Frankie

 •Freckles

•Fred

 •Fred Astair

 •Freddy

 •Freeda

 •Frennic

 •Frere

 •Frisbe

 •Frontier

 •Fruitloop

 •Fudge

 •Fuzzball

 •G’day

 •Gaea

 •Galah

 •Gamora

 •Gandhi

 •Garfield

 •Gary

 •Gator

 •Gecko

 •Geico

 •Gem

 •General Green

 •George

 •Gershwin

 •Gex

 •Ghandee

 •Gilbert

 •Gilgamesh

 •Ginger Rogers

 •Ginsberg

 •Gitian

 •Gizmo

 •Gizmo

 •Gizzard

 •Glory

 •Godzilla

 •Goldie

 •Goliath (Goli)

 •Gollum

 •Gollyzilla

 •Googleplex

 •Gorbash

 •Gordy

 •Grace

 •Granger

 •Griffin

 •Grommit

 •Grumpus

 •Guancho

 •Gucci

 •Gul Dukat

 •Guru

 •Guy

 •H20

 •Hades

 •Hagedis

 •Hali (tosis)

 •Hammer

 •Hannibal

 •Harlequin

 •Harry Potter

 •Harvey

 •Hawk

 •Hemingway

 •HerbertSherbert

 •Hercules

 •Hero

 •Hilary

 •Hiliary

 •Hiss

 •Homer

 •Honey

 •Hooligan

 •Horace

 •Horizen

 •Horus

 •Hoss

 •Hot Rod

 •Houdini

 •Huffy

 •Hugo

 •Humor

 •Hydro

 •Hyrda

 •Iago

 •Ibex

 •Ibsen

 •Ice

 •Ichabod

 •Ichoris

 •Idgie

 •Iggy

 •Igor

 •Igus

 •Inca

 •Innie

 •innova

 •Iris

 •Ishi

 •Iso

 •it

 •Iza

 •Izzard

 •Izzy

 •Jack

 •Jack O’lantern

 •Jackson

 •Jade

 •Jagger

 •Jakari (JaJa)

 •Jake

 •Jamie

 •Jane

 •Janeway

 •Jaser

 •Jason

 •Jasper

 •Jax

 •Jaz

 •Jazz

 •JC

 •Jeffy-Pooh

 •Jenga

 •Jengo

 •Jo Jo

 •Jo

 •Joe

 •Joey

 •Johnny Bravo

 •Johnny Vegas

 •Jonesy

 •Joplin

 •Julia

 •Juliet

 •Jumbuck

 •June

 •Junior

 •Jupiter

 •Ka

 •Kacey

 •Kahli

 •Kalgoorlie

 •Kama

 •Kane

 •Karl

 •Karma

 •Katie

 •Kennedy

 •Kermit

 •Khan

 •Kiker

 •Kiki

 •Kimba

 •King

 •King

 •Kinkajou

 •Kinky

 •Kipling

 •Kirbi

 •Kirra

 •Kit

 •KitKat

 •Kitter

 •Kitty

 •Kiwi

 •Klingon

 •Knave

 •Kobi

 •Kookaburra

 •Kraken

 •Kricket

 •Kumana Kira

 •Kumquat

 •Kuruk-darya

 •Kyle

 •Lady

 •Laken

 •Lamarck

 •Lao Tzu

 •Latasha

 •Launch Pad

 •Lavida

 •Leatherneck

 •Lemon Pepper

 •Lenny

 •Leo

 •Leo Tolstoy

 •Leona

 •Leonard

 •Leonarda

 •Leonardo

 •Leviathan

 •Levithian

 •Lewis

 •Liese

 •Lil Bit

 •Lil Buddy

 •Lil’ bit

 •Lil’ Man

 •Lilac

 •Lilith

 •Lilly

 •Limon

 •Lincoln

 •Linnaeus

 •Little grub

 •Little Lou

 •Lizard

 •Lizard lord

 •Lizzie

 •Lizzy

 •Llama

 •Loco Taco

 •Loki

 •London

 •Longfellow

 •Lorelei

 •Lotan

 •Lottie

 •Louie

 •Louis

 •Lucky

 •Lucy

 •Lucy and Ricky

 •Luka

 •Madame

 •Madonna

 •Mae West

 •Maia

 •Majave

 •Mandarin

 •Mango

 •Mani

 •Marcella

 •Maria

 •Mariko

 •Marin

 •Mario

 •Marlene

 •Marley

 •Marlow

 •Marnee

 •Marther

 •Marvin

 •Mashu

 •Mate

 •Mathilde

 •Matilda

 •Maud

 •Max

 •McClintock

 •Mealworm

 •Measle

 •Medusa

 •Medusa

 •Melbourne

 •Melville

 •Mercadise

 •Mercedes

 •Merigo Pluto

 •Merlin

 •Merlyn

 •Merry

 •Mian

 •Midnight

 •Mike

 •Mila

 •Millay

 •Millie

 •Milton

 •Miranda

 •Mirrium

 •Mistandarpacles

 •Mister

 •Misty

 •Mitch

 •Mo Jo Dragon

 •Mo-Chi

 •Moby Dick

 •Modonna

 •Mojo

 •Moe-Joe

 •Moko

 •Moldy

 •Molly

 •Montaro

 •Montegu

 •Montezuma

 •Monty

 •Moon Dog

 •Moose

 •Mordecai

 •Moritz

 •Mortishia

 •Mosi

 •Motley

 •Mouchi

 •Mouse

 •Mozart

 •Mr. Big

 •Mr. Bojangles

 •Mr. Kittles

 •Mr.Handsome

 •Mrs.Green

 •Ms. Big

 •Muchu

 •Muffin

 •Munchkin

 •Murray

 •Nabob

 •Nala

 •Nambi

 •Nani

 •Nani

 •Napolean

 •Narcissus

 •Nash

 •Neelix

 •Neffie (Nefratiti)

 •Nellie

 •Nero

 •Nessie

 •Nia

 •Nike

 •Ninja

 •Niobe

 •Nitris

 •Nitro

 •Noah

 •Nobby

 •Noddy

 •Nomad

 •Norma

 •Nostradamus

 •Nugget

 •Nuggz

 •Nureyev

 •Oatmeal

 •Offenbach

 •Ojo

 •Ollie

 •Omelette

 •Opal

 •Oscar

 •Osprey

 •Padfoot

 •Pagan

 •Paladin

 •Palomides

 •Pat

 •Patches

 •Paul

 •Peaches

 •Peanut

 •Pebbles

 •Pee Wee

 •Pegasus

 •Pele

 •Pepper

 •Perth

 •Pet

 •Petia

 •Phoenix

 •Phred

 •Picard

 •Picasso

 •Pie

 •Piglet

 •Pinocchio

 •Pip

 •Pippin

 •Pisa

 •Pit

 •Pixel

 •Plato

 •Pocahontas

 •Poe

 •Poets

 •Polyanna

 •Pooh

 •Pooka

 •Pop

 •Popeye

 •Poppy

 •Porcupine

 •Pouncer

 •Prickly Pear

 •Prince

 •Princess

 •Prissy

 •Professor

 •Prudence

 •Puff

 •Pugsley

 •Punkin

 •Purcell

 •Queen

 •Queen

 •Quincy

 •Quinn

 •Rah

 •Rahab

 •Rahu

 •Rainbow

 •Raistlin

 •Raja

 •Rajah

 •Ralston

 •Rambo

 •Ramouth

 •Rapscallion

 •Rascal

 •Rasputin

 •Ravines Hannible

 •Raziel

 •Recardo

 •Red

 •Remington

 •Ren

 •Reptar

 •Restless

 •Retra

 •Rex

 •Rex Stout

 •Rhea

 •Rhubarb

 •Rib

 •Ribbit

 •Ridley

 •Riley

 •Rob

 •Rob Roy

 •Rock

 •Rockafeller

 •Rocko

 •Rodrigez

 •Rogue

 •Roo

 •Rosa

 •Rosy

 •Rowdy

 •Rubit

 •Ruby

 •Rudy

 •Rupert

 •Rusty

 •Ruvel

 •Sabin

 •Sabrina

 •Sacajawea

 •Saguaro

 •Sahara

 •Saki

 •Sal

 •Sally

 •Sam

 •Sammy

 •Samson

 •Samuel

 •Samurai

 •Sango

 •Santana

 •Sapphire

 •Sappho

 •Sarah

 •Sargon

 •Sasha

 •Sayers

 •Scamp

 •Scarlet

 •Schmedley

 •Schmoo

 •Scott

 •Scrooge

 •Scully

 •Seven of Nine

 •Shadow

 •Shady

 •Shae

 •Shah

 •Shakespeare

 •Sheeba

 •Sheila

 •Shelley

 •Sherlock Holmes

 •Sherman

 •Shreadder

 •Shrimp

 •Sickness

 •Sieara

 •Siegfried

 •Sierra

 •Silky

 •Simply

 •Sinatra

 •Sir Edwind Bellows

 •Sir Walter Raleigh

 •Sir. Isaac Newton

 •Siscle

 •Skipper

 •Skippy

 •Skittles

 •Skitzza

 •Slider

 •Slim

 •Slimer

 •Slinky

 •Slither

 •Slyvester

 •Smaug

 •Smaug

 •Smokey

 •Snap

 •Snickers

 •Snug

 •Sobe

 •Sobe

 •Sobek

 •Sonata

 •Sonic Hedgehog

 •Sophie

 •sorland

 •Soussa

 •Sparky

 •Spaz’em

 •Speedy

 •Speedy Gonzales

 •Spice

 •Spiderman

 •Spiffy

 •Spike

 •Spikey

 •Spot

 •Sprint

 •Squiggy

 •St. George

 •Stalin

 •Stan

 •Stanley

 •Star

 •Stella

 •StephenKing

 •Stimpy

 •Stinky

 •Stout

 •Straus

 •Striker

 •Stubby

 •Stumpette

 •Stumpy

 •Styx

 •Suede

 •Sunny

 •Sunshine

 •Sweetgrass

 •Sydney

 •Taco

 •Tacoma

 •Taj

 •Tammy

 •Tangerine Kid

 •Tarzan

 •Taurus

 •Tawny

 •Taz

 •Tchaikovski

 •Tequila

 •Terrant

 •Tetrad

 •Thackeray

 •The Squeeze

 •Thistle

 •Thoreau

 •Thumper

 •Thurber

 •Tiamat

 •Tiberious

 •Tigger

 •Tika

 •Tim Taylor

 •Timbuktu

 •Tiny

 •Tiny Tim

 •Tipps

 •Titanic

 •Togadjijuji

 •Tokage

 •Tolkein

 •Tom

 •Tootie

 •Tortilla

 •Treelo

 •Trigger

 •Trinity

 •Tristen

 •Triton

 •Trix

 •Trooper

 •Truman

 •Tufi

 •Turret

 •Tuxedo

 •Tweet

 •Twister

 •Tyrone

 •Ulises

 •Ulysses

 •Umpa

 •V-Rod

 •Vader

 •Valen

 •Valentine

 •Valkyrie

 •Vandyke

 •Vega

 •Velcro

 •Velvet

 •Venus

 •Verdi

 •Vermithrax

 •Vermouth

 •Versatchi

 •Victor

 •Victoria

 •Vidalia

 •Visgoth

 •Vivaldi

 •Vivian

 •Vlad

 •Vortex

 •Wakiki

 •Walla-walla

 •Wallaby

 •Wallace

 •Walter Mitty

 •Waratah

 •Warts

 •Washee

 •Washington

 •Watson

 •Webster

 •Whip

 •Whiskers

 •Wigglesworth

 •Willis

 •Willoughby

 •Wilma

 •Wilson

 •Winston Churchil

 •Wishee

 •Wizz

 •Wolf

 •Wombat

 •Wurm

 •Xena

 •Yoda

 •Yoshi

 •Zanuck

 •Zero

 •Zeus

 •Zig-zag

 •Ziggy

 •Ziggy Stardust

 •Zip

 •Zippo

 •Zoey

 •Zooki

 •Zsa Zsa

 •Zues

 •Zulu

Written by Danny

Source www.thebeardeddragon.net

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