Bearded dragons require an environment with just the right amount of humidity in order to live long and prosperous lives. But how do you get that balance just right? Don’t worry — we have all the answers here in this ultimate guide on humidity for your bearded dragon.

We’ll cover everything from what is ideal humidity levels are, to how to raise or lower them if necessary, as well as why getting it right is so important. So let’s start learning!

When it comes to keeping a bearded dragon as a pet, temperature is often the first thing that new owners think about. After all, everyone knows that reptiles need warmth in order to survive and thrive.

However, what many people fail to realize is that humidity levels are just as important for the health of their reptile friend!

Proper humidity levels can help keep your bearded dragon healthy and comfortable while providing them with an environment similar to their natural habitat in the Australian outback. Getting the right balance between temperature and humidity can be tricky, but with some knowledge and effort you can create a perfect home for your scaly companion.

In their natural habitat, bearded dragons typically have a relative humidity (RH) of 35-40%. This is the typical range for the arid to semi-arid regions of the Australian Outback to which bearded dragons are native.

They love a dry heat!

These native habitats in New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia and Victoria are very dry. There is not much rain or humidity in these regions. They usually have hot temperatures and little vegetation. As a result, bearded dragons are adapted for maximum comfort and optimal health in environments with these conditions.

In captivity, it is important to recreate the natural environment of a bearded dragon as closely as possible. This means providing an enclosure with humidity levels that are between 35-40%.

The relative humidity (RH) of your bearded dragon’s tank should be 35-40%. Relative humidity means the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum possible for that temperature. The best way to measure humidity levels is with a hygrometer. This should be calibrated to ensure accuracy, as this will help you maintain the correct levels of humidity in your pet’s enclosure.

You shouldn’t expect the humidity level of your bearded dragon’s tank to automatically register at the ideal 35-40%. You may need to make adjustments in order to achieve this.

Fortunately, there are a few easy methods for raising or lowering the humidity in your pet’s enclosure.

1. Make sure the water bowl is away from any heat sources in the tank, as this can lead to excessive evaporation of water.

2. Equip your tank with a mesh lid, or one that allows for ample ventilation. Solid enclosure tops restrict ventilation and prevent air exchange with the outside environment, resulting in higher humidity levels.

3. Place a dehumidifier in or near the tank, as this can help to absorb moisture from the air and lower the humidity levels.

4. Use a fan to help circulate the air in the room and lower the humidity in your tank.

5. Decrease the amount of natural plants in your beardie’s tank. These can often release moisture into the air, making it more humid.

Mesh tops allow for greater air circulation and help lower humidity

1. Place the water bowl closer to heat sources in the tank, as this will help to evaporate more moisture into the air.

2. Periodically spray the enclosure with a misting bottle. This will add moisture to the air and increase the humidity levels.

3. Increase the amount of natural plants in your pet’s tank, as this will help absorb water throughout the day and release it into the air.

4. Place a humidifier in or near to your tank, as this will help add moisture to the air and increase the humidity levels.

There’s no way to accurately measure the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s enclosure without a hygrometer. It is important to calibrate the hygrometer before using it, as this will help ensure the accuracy of your readings.

A hygrometer is a digital or analog device that measures the relative humidity (RH) of the surrounding air. Most hygrometers are simple to use and come with instructions on how to calibrate. Once you have the device set up, you can easily monitor the levels of humidity in your pet’s enclosure and make the necessary adjustments to ensure it is always within the correct range.

These models are usually cheaper than digital ones and are easy to use. They also require no batteries, so they can last a very long time with proper maintenance. Mechanical hygrometers indicate the relative humidity of surrounding air with a moving needle.

However, mechanical hygrometers can be more difficult to calibrate and may not give you an accurate reading of the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank.

Additionally, they must be kept inside the tank. Some owners grow frustrated with the bulky size of mechanical hygrometers, as they can take up valuable space in a reptile tank.

These devices, also called probe hygrometers, are more expensive than mechanical models, but they offer the most accurate readings and make it easier to monitor the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s enclosure.

Digital hygrometers have a probe that can be placed inside the tank, which gives you more precise readings of the humidity levels. They are also easier to calibrate and require less maintenance than mechanical models.

Some owners like that they can simply position the probe in the tank and leave the bulky device outside. This allows them to conserve more space in the bearded dragon’s enclosure.

For the most accurate readings, you should place the hygrometer in the center of your bearded dragon’s tank. This will ensure that you get an accurate measure of the average humidity levels throughout the enclosure.

• Place the device away from direct heat sources, as these can give false readings
• Make sure that the probe of the hygrometer is not covered and can receive an accurate reading
• Position your hygrometer in an area that is not blocked by rocks, logs or other items in the enclosure. Avoid placing next to live plants, as these give off moisture that can throw off readings
• Do not place the hygrometer in a corner of the tank, as this can give false readings
• Clean the hygrometer regularly to ensure dust and particles are not interfering with the device

It is important to maintain the proper humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank for its overall health and wellbeing. Levels that are too low or too high can lead not only to stress and discomfort, but also to serious health issues that could be fatal.

If you suspect your pet is suffering from a humidity-related issue, it is important to seek out professional veterinary care as soon as possible and work to correct the humidity levels in its enclosure.

Excess humidity causes many health issues for bearded dragons, including:

• Respiratory infections
• Bacterial growth
• Fungal growth
• Ulcerative or necrotic dermatitis
• Mycotic disease

A lack of humidity can cause health problems also, including:

• Dehydration
• Avascular necrosis
• Renal disease
• Non-obstructive dystocia

All of the diseases listed above can be prevented with proper monitoring of the humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank. With the right hygrometer and some careful attention to detail, you can ensure your pet enjoys a healthy and happy life.

Maintaining the right humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s tank is essential for its health and happiness. By using a hygrometer, you can keep track of the humidity levels in your reptile’s enclosure and take steps to correct it when necessary.

Armed with the right tricks for lowering or raising humidity as needed and some tips on the best placement of your hygrometer, you can ensure that your pet enjoys a comfortable and healthy home.

The post Ultimate Guide To Bearded Dragon Humidity [Tips & Tricks] appeared first on beardie buddy .

In this article, you’ll learn how to feed and care fot your baby bearded dragon. We’ll cover how to setup a tank for a baby dragon, review a recommended feeding schedule, and how fast a baby bearded dragon will grow.

A baby bearded dragon is all you’ve ever wanted (or at least, it has been for the last couple weeks).

But before you snag the first lizard infant in sight, spend some time and care finding a pet who will be a great fit for your home:

Note: Most breeders or pet stores hold on to babies until they are about 4–6 weeks old. It’s not recommended to re-home a bearded dragon younger than this. They’re too fragile and easily stressed.

You should only purchase a baby bearded dragon from a reputable breeder or pet shop. Wild-caught bearded dragons are often mistreated and obtained unethically or even illegally, so stick with a domesticated dragon from a trusted provider.

When choosing your new friend, look for an active baby with clear eyes, smooth skin, and strong bones. Make sure your beardie can support his weight on all four legs, and that it is active and moving around the enclosure (lethargy, closed eyes, and unhealthy looking skin can be signs of illness).

The “baby” stage for a bearded dragons is short, from birth to the time they are about five months old. Once they hit this mark, they are now considered juvenile—with a whole new set of space and dietary needs.

The most reliable method of sexing a bearded dragon is examining the hemipenal bulges (located near the underside of the base of the tail). These bulges are not fully pronounced until a bearded dragon is about 9–12 weeks old. It is almost impossible for an untrained eye to tell the gender before this stage.

If you buy from an experienced breeder, they might be able to tell you if your baby is a boy or a girl—but even these experts aren’t right every time!

So don’t commit to the whole pink motif for the enclosure until your dragon is old enough to be sexed reliable!

Nothing will make your baby beardie feel at home like a safe, secure enclosure. Taking the extra time to set up a proper habitat will pay off in the long run for both baby and owner.

Baby bearded dragons require much smaller enclosures than their adult counterparts—a 20-gallon tank is usually the max size for baby dragon housing.

Of course, your pet will need to graduate to a larger home as he or she grows. Once your baby reaches the juvenile stage (around 4 months old), you should upgrade them to an enclosure no smaller than 40-50 gallons with lots of climbing space and room for growth.

Some owners up to purchase an adult-sized tank (120 gallons) and let their beardie grow into it. In most cases, this is fine (and financially prudent), but some babies might feel insecure and intimidated with too much space.

All beardies need plenty of light, including UVA and UVB rays, which they require to properly metabolize their food.

In their enclosure, you’ll need:

• UVB lamp
• UVA bulb (50–70 watts)

Leave these bulbs running for 12 hours a day during the day.

Your baby beardie will need a range of temperatures in their tank to stay comfortable. One end of the tank should be cooler (about 75–80 degrees Fahrenheit), while the other side should be a bit hotter (95–105 degrees).

To achieve this effect (known as a temperature gradient), place the heating source (either your heat-producing UVA bulb or a separate basking light) at one end of the enclosure. The other end, far away from the heat-produced light, will stay cooler.

The temperature of the cooler end of the enclosure should not drop below 70°F at night. You’ll need a thermometer to measure these temperatures accurately, and a ceramic heater to run at night if you find the tank is getting too chilly.

Hailing from a semi-arid climate, baby bearded dragons require humidity levels in their tanks of 30–40%.

You’ll need a hygrometer (humidity gauge) to measure this accurately, as well as a spray bottle and/or humidifier if the readings come up on the dry side.

Substrate is the material used to line your baby beardie’s tank. While some owners choose to go with sand, this isn’t recommended for baby dragons. Any small particles can be accidentally ingested, causing serious digestive issues.

Rather than sand, consider using newspaper or tile as a substrate—easy to clean and much safer for baby dragons. If you do decide to use something else, make sure it’s non-toxic and large enough for baby dragons not to accidentally ingest.

Baby bearded dragons require the same decorations as their adult counterparts—a hiding spot for security, some branches for climbing and perching, and plenty of rocks to lounge on.

A rock or log should be set up underneath their basking lamp as well, something comfortable for baby dragons to rest on while they get their daily dose of heat and UV rays

It’s important that baby dragons can explore their habitats safely—make sure there are no sharp edges or anything else baby dragon tykes could injure themselves on!

Baby bearded dragons should eat a protein-heavy diet with portions of green vegetables mixed-in for healthy growth and development. The ratio of protein to plant material should be 75% to 25%. As they grow, the recommended diet becomes much more veggie-centric.

If you are using live crickets the protein source, your baby bearded dragon should eat between 20–40 crickets a day, spread out throughout the day.

Dubia roaches and superworms are acceptable foods as well. Always opt for gut-loaded varieties, as they are more nutritious.

Whichever insect you feed your baby bearded dragon, make sure they are not too big. A good rule of thumb is to choose insects that are about the same size as the distance between your dragons eyes.

Your baby will likely be a voracious eater and rapid grower. Feeding every three hours throughout the day for a total of four meals is the best feeding routine for a baby bearded dragon.

This is a sample schedule you can follow to figure out when to feed your baby:

8 AM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens

11 AM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens and green bell peppers

2 PM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely choped broccoli and strawberries

5 PM: 10 crickets or dubia roaches, small portion of finely chopped collard greens and carrots

Tip: Place live insect food in the enclosure first and give your beardie 10 minutes to eat as many as they can. After the 10 minutes, take out the remaining insects and place the veggies (in a small dish or ramekin) in the tank for your pet to snack on until the next feeding).

Bonus Tip: Mix powdered calcium supplement in with your beardie’s food 2–3 times a work to make sure your baby is getting all the nutrients they need to avoid metabolic bone disease.

Your baby bearded dragon will grow fast! While you might wish you could freeze time and keep them small forever, by the time she’s five months old, your baby is now a juvenile.

Babies start out around 3–4 inches long, then grow about 1–3 inches per month through their juvenile stage. Their weight increases from 4–6 grams up to about 102 grams by the time they are a juvenile.

Bearded dragons grow until they become full-sized adults at about 12 months old. Some will keep growing until they are about 18–24 months old.

Adult female bearded dragons will reach 16–20 inches in length, males grow to a slightly larger size of 18–24 inches long.

(Cherish your little buddy’s diminutive size while it lasts!)

Bearded dragons are gentle creatures and can be handled, but baby dragons require extra care. Handle your baby very carefully and only for short periods at first until they are comfortable with it.

Avoid handling baby beardies too frequently as this can cause stress – so handle them just enough to allow them to become accustomed to their human companions.

If your baby is skittish, try putting your hand in the tank with some pieces of their favorite fruit and allowing them to crawl on it until they become comfortable.

(Who could say no to sliced grapes?)

With baby beardies, patience is key! She’ll come around if you give her enough time and love.

Caring for baby bearded dragons requires patience and dedication. They’re not quite as demanding as their human counterparts, but they still require a healthy diet, proper habitat and careful monitoring to ensure their wellbeing.

Remember, you should feed baby bearded dragons 20–40 crickets or dubia roaches a day spread out in four meals throughout the day, along with their plant-based foods and calcium supplements. Provide a comfortable habitat with an adequate temperature gradient and stable climate.

Your baby will grow rapidly and soon enough become an adult bearded dragon. The care you provide at this early stage will ensure your baby dragon grows into a happy, healthy reptile.

Have fun with the process and enjoy watching your baby grow!

The post How To Care For A Baby Bearded Dragon [Feeding Tips & More] appeared first on beardie buddy .

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While we can’t guarantee your bearded dragon will make it to the ripe old age of 14 years (the upper end of lifespans for a bearded dragon in captivity), there are some things that you can do to help them live as long and healthy of a life as possible.

In this blog post, we’ll discuss what factors influence their lifespan, how to tell how old they are, and tips on keeping your pet happy and healthy so they can live their best lives!

The average lifespan of a bearded dragon in captivity is 5-14 years. Most pet bearded dragons will make it to the upper age range, but this is not guaranteed; there are a number of factors that can impact how long a bearded dragon lives.

Generally speaking, bearded dragons in captivity outlive their counterparts in the wild. This is because the domestic life offers them access to food, water, and a stable environment. Since they don’t have to worry about predators or other environmental dangers like in the wild, they can focus their energy on enjoying life with less stress.

Bearded dragons living in the wild typically have a shorter lifespan (it’s a tough life out there for a little lizard).

The average is 5-8 years because of predators, food and water shortages, extreme weather, and other environmental hazards they face.

In their natural habitat of the semi-arid Australian outback, these creatures must have the skills and ability to survive in an often harsh environment. Birds of prey, snakes, dingos, and feral cats all prey on bearded dragons. Extreme heat, drought, and floods also pose a great threat to these animals.

It’s not unheard of for a wild bearded dragon to live upwards of 10 years, but this requires a lot of luck and an ideal environment.

The average lifespan of a bearded dragon in captivity is about 10 years. However, some dragons can live much longer if they are well taken care of and given the right environment — up to 14 years.

Factors like poor genetics, preventable disease, and improper care can shorten a bearded dragon’s lifespan. Conversely, proper diet, a stable environment, and diligent care can make help a bearded dragon live longer in captivity.

It’s fairly standard for bearded dragons to live up to 14 years in captivity, but the oldest bearded dragon ever was 18 years and 237 days old. “Sebastian,” the record holder for longest lifespan for a bearded dragon was raised in captivity in the United Kingdom and died on January 24th, 2016.

Like any living creature, the lifespan of a bearded dragon is greatly influenced by the environment it’s in. Here are some key factors that can contribute to your pet’s longevity:

The size, temperature, humidity, and setup of the tank plays a key role in the health and happiness of your bearded dragon. Perfecting environmental conditions helps reduce stress and decreases the likelihood of lifespan-shortening diseases.

Temperature is one of the most important factors that can impact a bearded dragon’s lifespan. Ideally, the hot side of the tank should reach about 95-105 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool side should be between 75-85 degrees. This temperature gradient allows your pet to regulate its body temperature, which is essential for their health.

Humidity levels should also be monitored and kept between 30-40%. Too much or too little humidity can cause respiratory infections and other health issues that can shorten a bearded dragon’s lifespan.

UVB lights are also essential for bearded dragons. These lights facilitate the production of Vitamin D3, which is important for their health and keeping the immune system strong. Insufficient UVB exposure can lead to metabolic bone disease, which can significantly shorten a bearded dragon’s lifespan.

The size of the tank is also important. Generally speaking, bigger is better: a 120 gallon tank is considered the acceptable tank size for a single adult bearded dragon. An enclosure that’s too small can cause stress and lead to health problems.

A safe substrate (such as reptile carpet or ceramic tile) should be used in the tank, as sand and other loose substrates can cause impaction — a potentially fatal condition caused when a bearded dragon accidentally ingests particulate matter.

A balanced diet plays a huge role in bearded dragon health. A combination of live insects, fresh fruits and vegetables, and supplements is essential for good health. It’s also important to feed your dragon a variety of different foods and adjust quantities based on age, size, and activity level.

Adults require a more plant-heavy diet that focuses on leafy greens, while hatchlings and juvenile dragons should be fed more insects.

Beardies of all ages require nutrient-dense food choices, like dark, leafy greens and gut-loaded insects. A diet with too much nutrient-poor food (such as iceberg lettuce and fatty insects like grubs) can cause nutritional deficiencies.

Calcium supplements should also be given regularly to ensure proper bone growth and prevent metabolic bone disease. Supplements are available in powder form and can be dusted over your pet’s food for easy consumption.

It’s well known that egg laying places a female bearded dragon’s body under a tremendous amount of stress. This can lead to calcium deficiency and other serious health problems that can severely impact their lifespan.

All female bearded dragons lay eggs at some point in their adult lives, but those cohabitating or placed in close proximity to males will lay more often. Therefore, it is important to keep female bearded dragons separated from males as much as possible in order to prolong their lifespans.

Bearded dragons can be prone to a variety of illnesses, such as respiratory infections and parasitic infestations. These ailments can easily shorten their lifespan if left untreated.

Additionally, they subject the animal to a great deal of discomfort and stress, which can further negatively impact bearded dragon lifespan.

The breed and lineage of a bearded dragon will also affect its lifespan. Some breeds are more prone to health problems, while others may live longer due to better genetics.

Bearded dragons that have been selectively bred from healthy specimens by a professional breeder will tend to live longer than those from less careful pet stores.

In general, larger bearded dragons tend to live longer and have fewer health problems than smaller ones, as they are more resilient to environmental changes and accidents. Larger bodies just handle stress better than smaller ones. This is a rule that applies to most reptiles.

Bearded dragons can live anywhere from 5-14 years depending on their care and living conditions, so there are a few things you can do to ensure your pet lives a long, healthy life.

A balanced diet with plenty of fresh vegetables and fruits, as well as live insects, can help a bearded dragon stay healthy. Calcium supplements should be given regularly to ensure proper bone growth and prevent metabolic bone disease.

Providing a comfortable and safe environment is essential to ensuring your pet’s health. The cage should be spacious enough for the bearded dragon to move around and bask, and the temperature should be regulated.

Maintain a tank with a temperature gradient (95-105 degrees Fahrenheit on the hot side and 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool side) so the dragon can choose its own preferred temperature. Ensure a relative humidity of 30-40%, and provide suitable UVB exposure to promote a long bearded dragon lifespan.

Additionally, keep the cage clean and free of any potential toxins or dangerous objects. Look out for anything small enough to be swallowed. Impaction can occur if your bearded dragon were to swallow something it can’t digest.

Finally, make sure to take your bearded dragon in for regular vet checkups. Your vet can help diagnose any potential health problems early so they can be treated promptly. This way, you can ensure your pet’s long and healthy beard dragon lifespan.

Evidently, there are a number of factors that contribute to a bearded dragon’s lifespan. With proper care and regular vet checkups, bearded dragons can enjoy a long and healthy life. Make sure to provide your pet with the best nutrition, environment, and veterinary care possible for a long and happy life.

Egg laying is a significant part of a female bearded dragon’s lifespan and health. Breeding should be done responsibly with the animal’s welfare in mind. Overbreeding can lead to calcium deficiencies and other health problems.

Every female bearded dragon is likely to produce a clutch of eggs at some point in her mature life. However, females that are cohabitated or kept near males produce eggs more often than those kept solitary or with other females. Avoiding contact with males can reduce the amount of time a female bearded dragon lays eggs, thus promoting a longer lifespan.

Determining the age of a bearded dragon can be difficult. The best way to tell how old a bearded dragon is to ask your breeder or vet directly. Establishing your pet’s age early in their life can help you can track of their progress and provide the best care possible as they age.

If you are unable to get this information from a breeder or vet, you may be able to make some guesses based on your bearded dragon’s size (if your beardie is not yet full grown).

At hatching, a bearded dragon measures about 4” long. From there, most will grow an additional 1-2 inches in length each month. At one year old, they should measure around reach their full size of 18-24″.

Use the growth chart here to determine how long your bearded dragon is based on their size:

Measuring the size of your bearded dragon can give you an estimate of their age, but this is not always reliable. Some bearded dragons may grow faster or slower than others due to diet and genetics.

The best way to determine your beard dragon’s age without consulting a vet is to measure their size. At hatching, bearded dragons are about 4” long and grow 1-2 inches in length each month until they reach their full size of 18-24″.

The environmental factors that can impact the lifespan of bearded dragons include temperature, humidity, UVB exposure, and tank size and cleanliness. A comfortable and safe environment with a temperature gradient, relative humidity of 30-40%, and appropriate UVB exposure can help ensure your bearded dragon has a long life.

In general, male bearded dragons tend to live longer than females. This is because males are usually larger than females and thus more resilient to disease and illness. Additionally, some female bearded dragons experience lifespan reduction due to being overbred.

There is no “magic bullet” that can wildly expand a bearded dragon’s lifespan, but regular vet checkups can help catch any health issues before they become severe. The standard treatments a vet prescribes for any health issues can mitigate the damage and stress of common diseases and help your bearded dragon live longer.

So, there you have it! Bearded dragons can live for a long time with proper care and nutrition.

Here are the five most important points to remember:

• Wild bearded dragons typically live around 8-10 years.
• Captive bearded dragons may live up to 14 years with good care.
• Factors such as diet, environment, breeding practices, and veterinary care can extend or reduce your pet’s lifespan.
• You can determine your beard dragon’s age by measuring their size at hatching and tracking their growth over time.
• Regular vet checkups can help catch any health issues before they become severe and increase your pet’s lifespan.

So if you own a bearded dragon or are thinking of getting one, make sure to provide them with all the love and attention they deserve so that they can enjoy a long life full of fun adventures!

With proper care and nutrition, you can guarantee years of memories with your scaly friend!

The post How Long Do Bearded Dragons Live? [Lifespan & Age Explained] appeared first on beardie buddy .

Baby and juvenile Beardies should be offered appropriately sized crickets two-three times a day. Offer as many as your Beardie will eat in a 5-10 minute time frame. When your Beardie stops eating, stop offering. Young Bearded Dragons can eat anywhere from 20-60 small crickets a day. Your Beardie should also be given fresh greens daily. Spraying the greens with water will help them last longer and will also help keep your Beardie hydrated.

Sub-adult to adult Beardies only need to eat prey items once a day along with fresh greens. Once they are this age you can also offer them Locusts, Cockroaches, Mealworms, Waxworms, Zophobas worms, Silkworms, Butterworms, Red worms, Earthworms and just about any other worm available. All these should be used as treats though with crickets and greens being the stable part of your Dragons diet. DO NOT feed your Beardie insects that you have caught in your backyard. These bugs could have parasites that could be passed on to your Beardie or they could have been exposed to poisons that could kill your Beardie. Lightning bugs can also kill your Beardie so it is much safer to stay away from wild caught insects.

Prey items should be dusted once a day with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement such as Rep-cal makes. All prey items should be dusted once a week with a multivitamin supplement such as Herptivite, also made by Rep-cal.

Any uneaten prey itmes should be removed from your Dragons enclosure.

There is a wide variety of greens that are available that are good for your Beardie. Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Bok choy, Kale, Turnip greens, Escarole and Chicory are among the easiest to find and the best to use. If the greens you are wondering about say Lettuce anywhere in the name avoid them. Most types of lettuce are composed mostly of water and hold little or no nutritional value. With the wide variety of other greens out there it is better and easier to just avoid any type of lettuce. Spinach should also be avoided as calcium binds to it and will not be digested by your animal.

A wide variety of vegetables can also be offered to your Beardie. Butternut squash, Yellow squash, Spaghetti squash, Acorn squash, all other varieties of squash, Green beans, Parsnips, Sweet potato, Snow peas and Carrots. Carrots should only be used as a treat though due to the high amounts of vitamin A. Any food with high amounts of vitamin A should be avoided as reptiles do not absorb alot of vitamin A. Feeding your Beardie alot foods such as Carrots will end up in a condition called Vitamin A toxicity wich is deadly. Squashes will either have to be cooked or microwaved before feeding them to your Beardie. This will soften them up and they can then be minced and eaten easier.

Fruits can also be used, just avoid any citrus fruit such as oranges and grape fruit.

The post Bearded Dragon Diet appeared first on beardie buddy .

For adult Dragons I prefer either the grass repti carpet or playsand. Washed playsand is much cheaper than all those fancy colored reptile sands and looks just as good. You can buy this playsand at most larger Hardware stores for under $4 for 50lbs.

Crushed walnut shell is dangerous and should only be used to clean up oil spills. This substrate is NOT digestable and if too much of it is eaten it will cause impaction. I have seen this occur first hand with reptiles ranging from lizards to tortoise. Stay away from this product please.

Written and composed by

Jeremiah “Podunk” Jaeger

Source www.BeardedDragon.org

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We’ll cover topics such as:

• What UVB bulbs and which ones are best for bearded dragons
• How to position UVB bulbs correctly in your tank
• What’s the best setup for a basking lamp
• Creating a temperature gradient
• Plenty of other tips that will help you create an optimal environment for your bearded dragon!

With this guide, you’ll be able to set up a habitat that provides everything they need! So grab your sunglasses and et’s get started, shall we?

Existing beyond the spectrum of visible lights, UVB rays are undetectable to the human eye. Nevertheless, they are essential to the health of your bearded dragon.

Bearded dragons require UVB rays in order to produce Vitamin D3. Without it, they can’t absorb and use calcium, leading to the development of metabolic bone disease, a nasty affliction that can cause growth problems and disfiguration.

The first step in setting up your bearded dragon’s habitat is to choose the right fixtures for their UVB bulbs.

When it comes to UVB bulbs, you essentially have two options: T5 UVB bulbs and T8 UVB bulbs. The two models differ in diameter and output.

T5s output more UVB than T8s, so they can be placed further away from your bearded dragon and mounted outside the tank. A T5 can be positioned about the mesh top to your beardie’s enclosure

T8 bulbs on the other hand, output less UVB and must be placed inside the tank to guarantee they are supplying enough UVB for your beardie. You can usually mount them with a simple command strip on the top or side of the tank. 

It’s important to note that regardless of the type you choose, the bulb should cover between 2/3 and 3/4 of the tank. This guarantees plenty of rays for your beardie to soak up, while still allowing for a shady escape if needed.

The ideal distance between the UVB bulb and floor of the tank should be between 12-18 inches. This is because UVB rays have a limited range, and in order to reach the bearded dragon they should be placed at just the right height. If the UVB bulb is too high, the rays won’t penetrate down far enough and your beardie won’t get the required exposure.

Additionally, it’s a good idea to invest in fixtures with reflectors to ensure that your pet is getting the maximum amount of UVB possible! This is especially true if you have a T5 bulb is mounted outside the enclosure and is shining through a mesh top. The mesh stops some of the UVB rays from getting into the tank. A reflector will help to maximize the output.

The ideal bearded dragon lighting positions a basking lamp at one end of the tank, and a UVB light that reaches about two-thirds of the tank

In addition to the UVB bulb, your bearded dragon needs a basking lamp. This fixture provides warmth and will help regulate the temperature of their tank.

It’s vital that you position the basking lamp at one end of the tank, not in the middle. This will create a “hot side” and a “cool side”, allowing your bearded dragon to move between the two environments as needed. The resulting “temperature gradient” will allow your beardie to warm himself up or cool himself down to regulate his body temperature.

Temperature gradient = a habitat with a warm side (where the basking lamp is) and cool side (the opposite side of the tank from the basking lamp).

You should also have a basking spot set up directly underneath the basking lamp, raised off the floor and offering closer proximity to the lamp. A flat rock or a log make the ideal lounge chair for your lizard to soak up the heat of their beloved basking lamp.

It’s important to use a thermometer to monitor temperatures in the enclosure. You want to make sure that your bearded dragon is comfortable, with temperatures ranging from 95–105°F on the hot side and 80–90°F on the cool side.

Note: Baby and juvenile bearded dragons require a slightly warmer temperature of up to 115°F on the hot side and 95°F on the cool end. The temperature in the tank should be gradually decreased as your beardie approaches adulthood.

Setting up a basking lamp at one end of the tank creates a proper temperature gradient

When it comes to your basking lamp, you’ll want to invest in a mercury vapor bulb or an incandescent spotlight. Both of these fixtures can provide UVA and heat — the two things your bearded dragon needs to stay healthy and happy.

A halogen bulb or incandescent spotlight produce a decent amount of heat; a bulb of 90–100 watts will keep the tank plenty warm.

If you’re using a fluorescent bulb, you’ll need to up the wattage to somewhere around 120 or 150 watts. These bulbs don’t produce as much heat, so you’ll have to compensate with a more powerful bulb.

If you’re having trouble keeping the tank warm enough during cold winter months, you may want to invest in a ceramic heat emitter. This fixture is mounted up high above the tank and emits infrared heat.

The emitter should never be placed inside the enclosure, as it can easily become too hot for your bearded dragon to handle. Position it on the outside of the tank, directed downward towards the middle of the tank or basking area.

A ceramic heat emitter is only necessary if the room temperature drops below 70°F. Rooms this cold suck a lot of heat out of your beardie’s tank. Make sure you’re using a thermometer to monitor temperatures in the tank, and adjust your heat sources as needed.

Your bearded dragon should get 12–14 hours of intense light each day from the combination of both the UVB bulb and basking lamp. The best way to achieve this is by using a timer for your lights, setting it to turn on at least 12 hours per day.

Any more than the recommended 12–14 hours of light can put too much stress on your bearded dragon. Any less can result in a variety of health problems and an unhappy lizard.

And don’t forget that during the summer months, natural sunlight should be taken into account when setting up a lighting schedule for your beardie’s tank. If you have windows in the room where their tank is located, make sure to adjust the lighting schedule accordingly. It’s best to match your beardie’s lighting schedule with the sun’s natural cycle.

No, your bearded dragon should not have a light on at night. Like all reptiles, they need darkness to regulate their circadian rhythms (aka body clock) and get proper rest. A consistent dark period of 10–12 hours every night is the best way to ensure your beardie’s health and happiness.

You’ll see a variety of red and blue lights on the market. These lights emit a low level of light and are marketed as being safe for nighttime lighting. However, even those low lights can disrupt sleep and throw off a bearded dragon’s day/night cycle.

For the best results, keep your beardie’s tank dark for at least 10–12 hours each night. To make your lizard feel safe, you can provide some natural hiding spots in the tank or add a shallow cave to help them relax (they might even ask you for a sleep mask).

A: Bearded dragons need full-spectrum UVB and UVA lighting as well as a basking lamp to keep the tank warm.

A: Bearded dragons should have 12–14 hours of intense lighting each day — this can come from either natural or artificial sources. The best way to ensure consistent lighting is to use a timer for your fixtures and make sure you adjust it

A: No, your bearded dragon should have a dark period of 10–12 hours every night. Even very dim red and blue lights can disrupt their sleep and throw off their circadian rhythms. Keep the tank dark to give your beardie

A: If the room temperature drops below 70°F, you may want to invest in a ceramic heat emitter to keep your tank warm enough. Make sure it’s mounted up high above the tank and directed downward towards the middle of the tank or

A: UVA and UVB are simply two different wavelengths of light, both of which are invisible to humans. UVA lighting is essential for your bearded dragon’s overall health and wellbeing, as it helps them regulate their circadian rhythms, appetite, and mood. UVB lighting is necessary to help with calcium absorption in their body. Both types of light are important, so make sure you have both in your tank.

In review, here’s what we have learned about the best lighting for a bearded dragon tank:

• Bearded dragons need full-spectrum UVA and UVB lighting, as well as a basking lamp to keep their tank warm.
• To ensure consistent light exposure, use a timer to turn the lights on for 12–14 hours each day. During the summer months, account for natural sunlight when setting up the schedule.
• To give your beardie some peace and quiet, keep the tank dark for 10–12 hours at night.
• If the room temperature drops below 70°F, you may need a ceramic heat emitter to supplement their warmth needs.
• Positing your lights properly is critical. Stronger bulbs should be mounted above the tank, while weaker bulbs should be set up inside the tank closer to the bottom of the enclosure.

Once you know the essentials, setting up your bearded dragon’s tank with the right lighting doesn’t seem so scary. You’ll be able to provide your beardie with the right light and temperature levels it needs to stay happy and healthy.

Now, you can go ahead and enjoy watching your scaly little buddy as they bask in the comfort of their habitat (and work on that summer tan)!

The post The Ultimate Bearded Dragon Lighting Guide [Perfect Uvb Setup] appeared first on beardie buddy .

Fear not — with this guide on identifying the gender of your pet lizard, you’ll be able to determine if you’ve got a “Beardo” or a “Beardina” in no time (feel free to steal those name suggestions).

So without further ado, let’s dive into how you can easily sex a bearded dragon.

There are three ways you can easily tell the difference. The first method, examining the hemipenal bulges, is probably the easiest and most reliable.

The best way to tell if a bearded dragon is male or female is to examine the bulges on the underbelly close to the tail and vent. Nerds will note that these are known as the hemipenal bulges (but it’s fine if you can’t remember what they’re called; this won’t be on the quiz). These bulges indicate the presence of the dragon’s internal sex organs, and thus, reveal the beardie’s gender.

To find your dragon’s hemipenal bulges and determine their sex, follow these steps:

1. Lay your dragon down on a flat, horizontal surface.
2. Gently grab about two inches above base of their tail and lift the tailupwards to about a 90-degree angle.
3. Look closely at the base of the tail.
4. If you see two parallel, defined bulges running along the base of the tail to the vent (or cloacal opening), it’s a male!
5. If you see only one bulge, centered, running along the base of the tail to the vent (or cloacal opening), it’s a female!

Tip: Never grab a dragon by the tip of the tail, for sexing or any other reason. The tip can be more fragile and prone to breaking off. And, unlike other lizards, a beardie cannot grow its tail back.

See the two hemipenal bulges? That’s a male alright!

The first method is the tried-and-true, easiest way to figure out if you’ve got a boy or girl beardie, but there’s another way to sex them as well.

To sex a dragon by flashlight examination, you’ll need to do the following:

1. Find a dark area in your house (or turn out all the lights).
2. Lay your dragon on a flat, horizontal surface
3. Gently grab about two inches above base of their tail and lift the tailupwards to about a 90-degree angle.
4. Shine a flashlight (phone flashlights work great) at the base of the tail, look closely at the area on the underside of the base of the tail and cloacal opening
5. When held up to the light, you’ll notice the dark shadow of the hemipenal bulges
6. If you see two dark shadows, what you’ve discovered is your dragon’s internal male sex organs. Congratulations, it’s a boy!
7. If you see just one dark shadow at the center of the base of the tale, congratulations, it’s a girl!

Male (left) and female (right), sexing a bearded dragon is easy using the flashlight method

Another way to sex a bearded dragon is to compare the size and shape of the femoral pores.

Femoral pores are openings in the skin on the underneath side of a bearded dragon’s inner thighs. The pores are used to secrete pheromones and are present and noticeable in both female and male adult dragons.

Males typically have larger, more pronounced femoral pores, while females tend to have smaller, less noticeable ones.

It’s hard to describe the difference in size, but easy to tell which is which if you examine the femoral pores of a male and female specimen side by side.

This method will not work if your dragon is less than about 12 months old. The femoral pores are not fully developed and indistinguishable until adulthood.

Note: femoral pore sexing isn’t as reliable as sexing with the hemipenal bulges, but it’s still a useful tool!

Yes! Bearded dragons are known to show sex-related behaviors, particularly around mating season.

However, these sexual differences in behavior are more subtle than some beardie enthusiasts would have you believe. There are many myths and misconceptions out there, so here’s the facts.

Some people will tell you that only males display “black-bearding”, a behavior where the dragon darkens their beards in response to stress.

In truth, both males and females can display this behavior. Males might be more likely in general to black-beard, but this will vary greatly from dragon to dragon.

You might have heard digging is a tell-tale sign of a female dragon. Female dragons dig when they are preparing to lay eggs, but some males may also display digging behavior at times.

Side note: If you know your dragon is an adult female, be sure to provide a digging box with substrate. It’s in her instincts to dig before laying a clutch. This will happen about 3-4 times a year. You will have to supplement her diet with calcium as well during the egg-laying season.

Males and females do have disparate responses to breeding season.

Males may become very territorial and show more dominant behavior, such as head bobbing and constant glass-surfing (clawing at the sides of the enclosure like they want to escape). You may also notice your male displaying his spikes more often.

Females will also show different behavior, but not the same way males do — they tend to engage in a lot of arm waving and may become more receptive to male advances.

Male bearded dragons are larger than females, average.

Does this mean EVERY male will be larger than EVERY female?

Nope.

There are many factors that can influence size, including environment, diet and individual genetics. A female raised in an enclosure with the proper temperature, humidity, and diet will grow to be larger than a male in a sub-standard environment nine times out of ten.

So don’t rely on size alone to sex your dragon — use the other methods mentioned above!

There are some other reliable examples of sexual dimorphism in bearded dragons though. Males tend to have thicker tails and bigger heads. Females tend to have a pudgier belly to support egg production.

It is hard to tell the gender of a baby bearded dragon. Like all reptiles, bearded dragons sexual characteristics develop as the individual matures. The hemipenal bulges are not yet pronounced. You can not tell if it is a boy or girl until it is about 9 to 12 weeks old.

Sexing via femoral pore examination is only viable even later — once your beardie is an adult.

Experienced breeders might be able to sex a juvenile bearded dragon earlier than nine weeks (some even brag that they are able to spot gender differences in 1-week-old babies). Beginners should wait for more obvious sexing cues, though.

The sex of your bearded dragon is a personal preference.

Maybe you’ve always wanted to name your beardie “David” or something. In which case, go crazy, get a male!

Some people prefer the more laid back nature of female dragons, while others are entertained by their male’s more active and territorial behavior.

You shouldn’t be put off by the behavior of either males or females; both make great pets! Both the male craziness of mating season and females’ preoccupation during egg-laying times are passing phases.

Ultimately, it’s up to you!

If you don’t want a gaggle of baby dragons, the answer is no. Male and female bearded dragons should not be housed together, as they will mate and produce offspring. This is especially true during mating season.

Additionally, it’s not recommended that you keep multiple dragons in the same environment before adulthood. Dominating individuals will not hesitate to take food away from subdominant dragons, or hog the basking light, and this could lead to malnutrition.

If you do decide to house an adult male and female together, be sure to provide them with adequate space. A 120-gallon tank is not enough! Not guaranteeing comfortable living space and privacy for your beardies can lead to stress and related maladies.

Having difficulty sexing your own dragon?

Consult with an experienced breeder or veterinarian for personalized help. Your vet will be happy to sex your bearded dragon for you when you bring your pet in for an initial exam (which you should be doing within the first couple days of owning them).

Can bearded dragons change their sex?

Yes! Sex reversal is a common trait in reptiles and amphibians, and bearded dragons are no exception. Studies have shown that male embryos can become females if subjected to high incubation temperatures.

This is thought to be an adaptive technique meant to increase the number of egg-laying females in a generation born into a hotter (and thus harder to survive in) climate. This sex reversal happens only before bearded dragons are hatched and will not occur if eggs are incubated at the normal temperature.

So there you have it! Telling the difference between male and female bearded dragons is now a piece of cake.

The sexing process requires a little bit of observation, but with time and patience you can easily tell which sex your dragon is. Just remember to look for hemipenal bulges (two for males, one for females), femoral pores on the back legs, and sex-specific behaviors.

If you can’t figure it out on your own, don’t worry! Your vet is always happy to help sex your dragon for you.

Good luck!

The post How To Tell If A Bearded Dragon Is Male Or Female [Sexing Guide] appeared first on beardie buddy .

Impaction is a serious condition in reptiles, especially bearded dragons, and it’s important to know the causes, symptoms, and treatments so that you can keep your pet healthy. In this guide we will cover everything there is to know about impaction in bearded dragons. So if you suspect impaction in your beardie — read on!

Impaction is the blockage of the digestive tract by a hard mass, impeding normal excretion of solid waste. It most often occurs when a reptile ingests a substrate such as sand or gravel, which can get stuck in their gut and form an impaction.

Impaction is not exclusive to bearded dragons, but it is especially common in this species due to their tendency to dig and explore their environment with their mouths. Bearded dragons who live in an unclean or improperly set up habitat or suffer from neglect are most likely to be impacted.

If you suspect your bearded dragon is impacted, it’s important to examine the root cause. There are three main causes of impaction in bearded dragons:

The material that covers the bottom of your bearded dragon’s tank is called the substrate. If this substrate is loose and too small — like sand, gravel, or pebbles — your bearded dragon can accidentally ingest it while digging around. This is a very common cause of impaction in bearded dragons.

For this reason, fixed substrates — like reptile carpet and ceramic tile — are recommended for bearded dragons.

Incorrect temperatures and UV levels in the habitat can cause impaction. Bearded dragons require specific temperatures for their basking spot (around 95-105°F), and also need a full spectrum UVB light. Without these correct settings, impaction is more likely to occur.

Temperature and UVB light are essential for maintaining normal digestive function. If these are not optimal, impaction can occur.

Improper diets can also contribute to impaction. Feeding too much food or pieces of food that are too large for your bearded dragon to digest can cause impaction.

As a general rule, never feed your bearded dragon foods that are wider than the space between their eyes. This is a good rule of thumb, since it accounts for the fact that the acceptable size of the food will vary depending on the size of the individual.

Just because your bearded dragon seems a little off, it doesn’t necessarily mean impaction is the culprit. There are a few signs and symptoms of impaction you can watch out for to tell if your bearded dragon is impacted.

The most common symptom of impaction is a lack of regular pooping. If your bearded dragon is impacted, they won’t be able to pass their waste as usual, and it will start to accumulate in the body.

If you haven’t seen any solid waste from your beardie in several days or if there are clear signs of discomfort, impaction is a possibility. Baby bearded dragons should poop one or more times a day. Juveniles (3-12 months old) should be pooping daily. Adult bearded dragons should poop 3⁠–7 times a week. Any deviation from these rates could indicate impaction.

Impaction can lead to stiffness in the back legs due to a lack of nutrition and pressure from the impaction on the spine. If your bearded dragon’s back legs seem stiff or weak, impaction is likely.

This back leg stiffness can cause your bearded dragon to walk with an awkward gait or appear to drag one or both back legs as they move around the enclosure. This is a serious symptom of impaction and should be treated as an emergency.

Another symptom of impaction is a lump or bulge in the bearded dragon’s back. This indicates that their digestive system is backed up, and waste that should be passing through cannot do so.

If impaction is left untreated for too long, it can start to affect your bearded dragon’s appetite. If impaction is present, your bearded dragon may not want to eat or may be slower than usual in showing interest in food.

This is not a telltale sign, there are many reasons why a bearded dragon may not want to eat. You should look out for other symptoms in addition to decreased appetite if you want to be 100% sure impaction is to blame.

If you observe lethargy, fatigue, and general lack of energy, your bearded dragon might be suffering from impaction. If you notice your bearded dragon is more tired and inactive than usual, impaction is a possibility.

Again, there are several causes of lethargy (including normal seasonal brumation) so make sure to check for other impaction symptoms as well.

Once you’re sure your poor beardie is impacted, it’s time to take action. The good news is impaction can be treated fairly easily.

There are several at-home fixes you can try to help your bearded dragon pass the impaction.

If at-home treatments don’t work or if the impaction is severe, you should take your bearded dragon to the vet.

The impaction can be caused by an unsuitable environment or incorrect temperatures. Temperature is known to effect digestion in lizards. Double check your bearded dragon’s enclosure and make sure the temperature is correct (around 95-105°F in the basking spot and 85°F on the cool side).

Another environmental issue that could be causing impaction is a lack of humidity. Make sure your bearded dragon’s enclosure is properly humidified to a relative humidity of 30⁠–40% to promote regular digestion.

And of course, if any impaction-causing objects have been left in the enclosure, it’s important to remove them right away. If you are using a loose substrate, make sure to switch it out with a fixed substrate that won’t cause impaction (like newspaper, reptile carpet, or ceramic tile).

Giving your bearded dragon a warm bath can help them pass the impaction. Fill up a shallow container with lukewarm water (around 90-95°F) and let your beardie soak for 20 minutes or so, keeping their head above the water at all times.

The warmth of the water will relax the muscles and promote impaction passing. After the bath, towel dry your bearded dragon and keep them warm until they are back to their normal energy level.

Gently massaging your bearded dragon’s abdomen can help shift impaction. Hold your beardie upright and support them in place with one hand. With the other hand, press lightly to massage from the shoulder area towards the tail area of their body. Be sure to be gentle, as impaction can cause pain and you don’t want to hurt them further.

A gentle massage can be enough to work the impaction loose. If this happens, your bearded dragon should expel the impaction immediately. Depending on how long your beardie has been impacted, there might be a voluminous amount of fecal material.

If impaction is caused by a diet that’s not suitable for bearded dragons, the best way to prevent impaction is to change their food.

Make sure your beardie eats plenty of fresh vegetables and insects as part of their balanced diet. Bearded dragons are omnivores, which means they need both meat-based proteins and plant-based fiber to stay healthy.

Avoid giving your bearded dragon any foods that are too large for them to consume safely. Stick to pieces that are the size of the space between your beardie’s eyes or less. Also, avoid any sugary or fatty foods that may be difficult for your bearded dragon to digest.

If impaction is severe, impaction can be life-threatening. If you think your bearded dragon’s impaction is too serious to treat at home, or home-based cared isn’t working, it’s best to take them to the vet as soon as possible.

A vet can help determine if impaction is causing any other health problems and provide medications or surgeries to help. The vet might also recommend an x-ray or ultrasound to get a better understanding of the impaction.

Remember that impaction is not something to be taken lightly and should always be addressed as soon as possible. If you suspect your bearded dragon has impaction, take action right away! With quick treatment, impaction can usually be reversed and your bearded dragon can make a full recovery.

Impaction is a common health issue in bearded dragons, but it can be prevented or reversed with quick action. Impaction can be caused by environmental issues like incorrect temperatures or a lack of humidity, impaction-causing objects left in the enclosure, and unsuitable food items.

Giving your bearded dragon warm baths and massaging their abdomen can help shift impaction. Changing their diet to one that is suitable for bearded dragons and monitoring the environment are also key steps to preventing impaction. If impaction is severe, it’s best to take your beardie to the vet as soon as possible for proper treatment.

It’s important to stay vigilant and keep an eye out for impaction symptoms early on, so your beardie can get the help they need! By being proactive, impaction can be reversed and your bearded dragon can make a full recovery.

Take care of your beardie and they’ll take care of you!

The post Complete Guide To Bearded Dragon Impaction [Symptoms & Treatment] appeared first on beardie buddy .

If you are interested in more information on breeding bearded dragons, below is some information I found helpful when I first started.

Guide to Breeding Bearded Dragons

Bearded dragons are one of the most popular lizard pets in America, and uniquely colored “designer dragons” are in demand. Some display pastel orange, violet, and red colorations. Because of this, many people are interested in breeding bearded dragons, but breeding reptiles can be a difficult venture. Temperature, conditions and timing must be correct for a pairing to result in fertile eggs.

 A male and female dragon are of course necessary for the process, but determining the sex of a bearded dragon can be tricky. In adult animals, the area at the base of the tail will tell you what sex your reptile is. Males have an indentation in the center of the tail, caused by the bulge of the hemipenes. Females lack these organs and will thus have a slight protrusion in the center of their tails. It is difficult to sex individuals less than three months old.

Fortunately, bearded dragons are among the most prolific of the agamids. With a large enough enclosure, a suitable place for egg laying, and a pair of healthy dragons, successful breeding is not too difficult. It usually follows a short brumation period where the temperatures and daylight hours are reduced for two to three months. This simulates winter. Many bearded dragons can be convinced to attempt breeding without this brumation period, but in cases where both animals are not allowed to rest before mating, low fertility rates can occur.

Sexually mature male bearded dragons will darken the beard below their jaws, bob their heads, and stamp their front feet in a courtship display when in the presence of a desirable female. They will then chase the female around the breeding enclosure in an attempt to mount her. When carrying eggs, the female’s abdomen will expand considerably. It is important to make sure that a gravid female has an egg laying +site available to her. If a site is not provided, egg binding could occur, which has the danger of leading to the death of the dragon.

An egg laying site can be a two foot square box about eighteen inches deep, dilled with potting soil and sand. This substrate should be kept damp. Females will dig in the box before laying their eggs. The appearance of the female bearded dragon is likely to change overnight. She will suddenly become thin again after laying her eggs.

At this time, the eggs should be removed from the laying box. They can be kept in a chicken incubator or other device which will keep them at a temperature of eighty-two to eighty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. A moist perlite and vermiculite medium is often use for egg incubation. Different temperatures will result in a different mix of sexes in the hatchlings. Males hatch at higher temperatures, females at lower, and a mixture of the two in the middle of the range.

+After sixty to eighty days, the dragon eggs will hatch. Many of them may turn out to have been infertile. After the incubation period is over, the eggs will begin to collapse, and within twenty four hours, the babies will emerge. They should be left in the incubator for another twenty four hours to allow them to absorb their yolk sacs. Within seventy two hours, they should be willing to eat.

Bearded dragon hatchlings ought to be fed twice or three times a day. Crickets are a good food to feed young dragons, but size is essential. The crickets should be no larger than 1/4 inch, or hind limb paralysis may result, which is usually fatal. Twice a week, finely chopped salad mixture of the same composition as adult dragon greens should be offered. When housing the hatchlings together, it is important to keep their feeding schedule regular to prevent them from biting their cage mates or your hand.

Source: Bearded Dragon center

Link: http://www.beardeddragoncenter.com/Bearded-Dragon-Breeding.shtml

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